Figure-eight loop (also figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow-through, figure-eight retrace, Flemish loop, or Flemish eight) is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.
The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.
The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.
In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.[2]
Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used.
This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.[3][4]
Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.[5][6][7][8] This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,[3][2][9][10][11][12] but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).[13][14] It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.[15] If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.[3][16][17][18][10] The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".[19] This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.[20][21]
The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.[3] A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.[3][22]
Tying a double overhand or barrel knot in front of the figure 8 follow through does not alter the failure mechanism of the knot. It simply adds another step to an already secure knot.
When tied correctly, the knot is tight, with a 5- to 8-inch tail ... Tie the figure eight so that its loop is about the same diameter as your belay loop. The figure eight knot does not require a backup knot.
For instance, the overhand knot can be used to secure rope ends after ... a rewoven figure eight (fig. 9-4c). ... The rewoven figure eight is finished off by tying an overhand knot in the loose end of the rope.
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: CS1 maint: others (link)make certain you leave a long tail, and finish this with a Double Fisherman's
A stopper knot must be added when the threaded figure eight loop is used to tie on a line.
The reality of the so-called 'back-up knot'is that it is not necessary.
If correctly tied, dressed, and set then it does not need an additional stopper knot to secure the tail. ... I would recommend allowing a tail of 100mm.
The figure eight follow-through does not require a backup ... but it can't hurt to use one
You do not need a backup knot behind a figure eight tie-in knot nor should students be taught that 'messy' knots are weaker than 'correct' knots.
Make sure your knot is well tied, tight and has a stopper knot. Adding a stopper knot adds another link to the safety chain.
a situation to be aware of is when the climber belays off the rope loop rather than the harness belay loop
min. 10cm
min. 10 cm
10 cm
may seriously weaken the knot if you use the inside of the knot as a belay loop