Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface
Woman's mourning bonnet in hard crape, c. 1880
Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape (from the Frenchcrêpe),[1] is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiberfabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning.[2] Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".[3]
It is woven of hard-spun yarn, originally silk "in the gum" (silk from which the sericin had not been removed). There traditionally have been two distinct varieties of the crêpe: soft, Canton or Oriental crêpe, and hard or crisped crêpe.[4]
2. A historic 19th century lightweight crêpe,[5]: 6 introduced in 1820,[6] and, as "crepe aerophane" in 1861.[7]
Albert crêpe
1. A fine black silk mourning crêpe introduced in 1862.[6]
2. Plain-weave crêpe.
3. An English-made silk and cotton blend crêpe.[5]: 10
Alicienne
A furnishing fabric with alternating plain weave and crêpe stripes.[5]: 14
Alpaca crêpe
Rayon and acetate blend crêpe with a woollen texture, not necessarily made of alpaca yarn.[5]: 14
Altesse
A British plain-weave silk fabric with crêpe filling.[5]: 14
Arabian
1. A British-made plain-weave cloth with figured crêpe designs.
2. Piece-dyed silk crêpe embroidered with dots.[5]: 23
Armure
(See Georgian crêpe)
B
Balanced crêpe
Crêpe woven with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both directions.[5]: 39
Balmoral crape
An 1895 English crape.[8]
Balzerine
An 1889 narrow-striped silk grenadine overlaid with wider crêpe stripes. An earlier 1830s cotton/worsted fabric, spelled balzarine, was probably not crêpe.[8]
Bark (or tree-bark) crêpe
A broad term describing rough crêpes with a bark texture.[9][10]
Bauté satin
Warp-woven satin with a plain crêpe reverse.[11]
Borada crape
A cheaper, economical version of mourning crape advertised in 1887.[3]
Bologna crêpe
Silk crêpe used for mourning, also known as valle cypre.[12]
C
Canton crêpe
A soft silk crêpe with a pebbly surface originally associated with Canton in China, with bias ribs. Made in Britain, but exported to China, hence its name.[13]
Caustic soda crêpe
Cotton treated with chemicals to create a crêpe-like texture, often in patterns.[14]
Japanese raw silk crêpe widely used to make kimono.[16][17] When woven with a dot it is mon-chirimen.[18]
Courtauld crape
1890s mourning crape made by Courtaulds. An 1894 variation, called 'Courtauld's new silk crêpe', was exceptionally thin and soft.[7] Courtaulds monopolised the export market for English crapes and crêpes, meaning that the textiles known as "crape anglaise" were almost always manufactured by Courtaulds up until 1940.[3]
Crêpe Algerian
A trade name for a printed pongee with a rough crêpe texture.[19]
Crêpe anglaise
A French term for English mourning crapes in black and white.[7] The only true 'crape anglais' was considered that made by Courtaulds (see Courtauld crape) which was last made in 1940.[3]
Crêpe Beatrice
Trade name for crêpe with a light warp stripe.[19]
Crêpe berber
Trade name for a piece-dyed crepe-textured pongee.[20]
Trade name. Lightweight worsted crêpe with heavier, looser filling.[20]
Crêpe mosseux
A type of opaque voile which resists shrinkage.[20]
Crêpe myosotis
A later mourning crêpe made in the 1930s, in crimped silk with a soft finish.[7] Courtaulds launched this textile in the early 1930s as an alternative to the increasingly unpopular traditional stiff mourning crapes.[3]
Crepenette
Crêpe-effect pongee.[20]
Crêpe ondese
Rough textured rayon-acetate blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe poplin
A late 19th century silk-wool rib fabric with crêpe effect.[20]
Crêpe rachel
French print cotton-worsted blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe radio
British raw silk crêpe with a ribbed effect, using alternate double rows of S-twist and Z-twist.[20]
Crêpe royal
Sheer crêpe-de-chine introduced in 1889.[7]
Crêpe suzette
A variation on crepon georgette.[20]
Crepine
Silk with crêpe dots. The name also describes a type of fringe.[20]
Crepoline
A class of transparent fabrics with a warp-wise crêpe effect.[20]
Crepon
A heavier crêpe with an exaggerated warp-directional texture produced by several weaving techniques.[20] A soft silky version was introduced in 1866, and the second, much heavier version in 1882. In the 1890s crepon also described a woollen fabric that puffed between stripes or squares, including crepon milleraye (striped) and crepon Persian (with 'Oriental patterns').[7]
Crystal crêpe
An English term for silk crêpe.[21]
Crespe
Lightweight crimped mourning gauze, late 16th century.[7]
Cynara
An crêpe-type fabric in rayon and acetate.[22]
Cyprus
Fine crêpe used for mourning hatbands in the 15th-17th centuries, made in Cyprus.[23]
E
ʻeleʻele kanikau
Black mourning crêpe worn in Hawaii.[24]
Epingline
Textile in silk, rayon or worsted with a crêpe surface.[25]
Esmeralda or étendelle
Sheer white crêpe or gauze popular in the early 19th century, often embroidered.[26]
F
Flat crêpe
Also called mock crepe or (inaccurately) French crepe. A smooth, flat plain-weave fabric, typically a silk blend, with hard-twisted yarns and ordinary yarn warp. Also used to describe a similar fabric made without crepe-twist yarns.[27]
French crêpe
1. An inaccurately-applied name for flat crêpe.
2. Plain-weave light silk or rayon cloths similar to flat crêpe.
3. A lingerie weight fabric with ordinary yarn warp and a twisted filling yarn that is less twisted than typical crepe twist.[28]
G
Gamsa
An imitation satin-backed crêpe in twill weave rayon.[29]
1. Sheer, lightweight fabric named after the couturiere Georgette de la Plante.[30]
2. A crepe-surfaced plain weave silk or synthetic fabric with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both warp and weft.
3. An English term for cotton crepe.[31]
Georgian crêpe
A chain-pebbled crêpe (called armure in France) often with diamond, shield or bird's-eye motifs.[31]
H
Health crêpe
See crêpe de santé.
L
Lingerie crêpe
See French crêpe.
M
Marana
Woollen crepe, very resilient and drapable.[32]
Mock crêpe
See flat crêpe.
Momie crêpe
Light cotton fabric.[18]
Moss crepe
See sand crepe.
N
Norwich crêpe or crape
1. 19th century silk warp and worsted, resembling a non-twill bombazine but not considered true crêpe.
2. 17th century black-dyed worsted crêpe made in England.
3. A georgette-like silk and cotton blend fabric in a crêpe weave.[3][33]
P
Pekin crêpe
Pekin (shiny and matte striped textile) woven with a crêpe weft.[34]
Plissé
Mainly cotton fabric with a crêpe effect created by chemically treating the fabric to pucker and crinkle, typically in stripes. Plissé satin is made using crêpe yarns.[35]
R
Reverse crêpe
Woven with a crêpe yarn warp and flat filling.[36]
^One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Crape". Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 7 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 379.
^ a b c d e f gTortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles (8th ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 9781609015350.
^ a bLewandowski, p.6
^ a b c d e f g h i j kLewandowski, p.77
^ a bLewandowski, p. 22
^Lewandowski, p. 25
^Tortora & Johnson, p.45
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 52
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 66
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 96
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 52
^ a bLewandowski, p. 52
^Ikegami, p.276
^Panda, p.92
^ a bLewandowski, p. 194
^ a b cTortora & Johnson, p. 156
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai ajTortora & Johnson, p. 157
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 164
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 168
^Lewandowski, p. 81
^Lewandowski, p. 96
^Lewandowski, p. 99
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 215
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 236
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 247
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 254
^Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern. Courier Corporation. pp. 88. ISBN 9780486402949.
^ a bTortora & Johnson, p. 259
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 372
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 418
^Lewandowski, p. 224
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 465
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 509
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 510
^Lewandowski, p. 252
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 517
^Lewandowski, p. 254
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 527
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 536
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 555
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 664
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 693
^Tortora & Johnson, p. 695
Bibliography
Ikegami, Eiko (2005). Bonds of civility : aesthetic networks and political origins of Japanese culture (Reprinted ed.). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. ISBN 9780521601153.
Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. ISBN 9780810877856.
Panda, H. (2010). The complete book on textile processing and silk reeling technology (First ed.). Delhi: Asia Pacific Business Press, Inc. ISBN 9788178331355.
Taylor, Lou (2009) [1983]. "Appendix 1: A Selection of Popular Mourning Fabrics". Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History (2009 ed.). Routledge Revivals. pp. 246–253. ISBN 978-1135228439.
Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2014). The Fairchild books dictionary of textiles (8th ed.). New York: Fairchild Books. ISBN 9781609015350.