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Helmut Lang (artist)

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang (born 10 March 1956) is an Austrian artist and former fashion designer and mentor who lives and works in New York and on Long Island.

Career

In 1986, Lang showed his first Helmut Lang runway collection in Paris at Centre Georges Pompidou. His first Helmut men's collection debuted in 1987 and a decade later he moved his label from Vienna to New York.[1][2]

Lang used unconventional materials such as rubber, feathers and metallic fabrics and redefined the silhouette of the 1990s and early 2000s. He broke away from the runway show-as-spectacle in the height of the 1980s opulence and was the first to stream his collection online in 1998.[3]

Lang's brand was known for its utilitarian, minimalist aesthetic,[4] as well as for his prestige range of denim.[5]

In 1999, Lang sold a 51% stake in his company to the Prada Group, with Prada running distribution and manufacturing and Lang controlling design and advertising. Afterwards, Prada developed a line of Helmut Lang accessories such as shoes, belts and bags, and opened Helmut Lang stores in Hong Kong and Singapore.[1] Sales under the Prada Group fell from $100 million in 1999 to $37 million in 2003. The brand's decision to cancel the licensing for an external company to manufacture and market its profitable range of Helmut Lang Jeans was cited as one of the reasons for its loss in revenue.[6] In 2005 he left his label and retired from fashion. He has since been based in New York City and on Long Island as a practicing artist.[5] In 2006, Prada sold the Helmut Lang brand to Link Theory Holdings.[4]

Lang has collaborated with artists Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois. His recent works explore abstract sculptural forms and physical arrangements beyond the limitations of the human body. Lang had his first solo art exhibition ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the Kestnergesellschaft in Hannover in 2008 and has since presented solo exhibitions internationally.[7] Lang has published excerpts from his ongoing art projects Long Island Diaries [8] and The Selective Memory Series [9] in a number of publications, such as Purple, BUTT Magazine [10], Fanzine 137 [11], Visionaire and most recently The Travel Almanac [12].

Work

Surrogate Skin (2008), as displayed in the exhibition HELMUT LANG, ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the kestnergesellschaft in Hanover, Germany, 2008

This timeline outlines Helmut Lang's work in fashion and art up until 2021.

Solo Exhibitions

Group Exhibitions

Helmut Lang fashion 1977–2005

This timeline outlines the developments in Lang's fashion as well significant attributes of key collections.

Arbor (2008), as displayed in the exhibition HELMUT LANG, ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the kestnergesellschaft in Hanover, Germany, 2008
Front Row (2009), sculpture commissioned by the Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art, Athens
MAKE IT HARD (2011), as displayed at The Fireplace Project in East Hampton, 2011
MAKE IT HARD (2011), as displayed at The Fireplace Project in East Hampton, 2011

Collections

Helmut Lang's works are part of the following collections:

Architecture projects

Original Helmut Lang stores (until 2005)

All of the original Helmut Lang stores have been closed. The last one to close was the Paris location in late 2005. Most of the art-inspired stores had been designed by Lang in collaboration with Gluckman Mayner Architects of New York.

1995

1997

2000

2002

2003

Fragrance Projects

Four different scents were created by Lang in cooperation with Procter & Gamble, all of which were discontinued with the 2005 closing of the brand.

Awards

Bibliography

Key interviews

References

  1. ^ a b Seabrook, John (18 September 2000). "The Invisible Designer: Helmut Lang". New Yorker. Archived from the original on 14 November 2013. Retrieved 16 June 2013.
  2. ^ "Brussels Louise – Festivités dans la Capitale européenne".
  3. ^ Bain, Marc. "How Helmut Lang Changed Fashion". The Atlantic. Retrieved 5 January 2018.
  4. ^ a b Craven, Jo. "Helmut Lang". Vogue UK. Retrieved 5 January 2018.
  5. ^ a b Schneier, Matthew (9 September 2017). "Helmut Lang Returns! Or Does He?". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 5 January 2018.
  6. ^ Wilson, Eric (26 May 2005). "Decline and Fall of Helmut Lang". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 5 January 2018.
  7. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 14 March 2008. Retrieved 12 March 2008.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  8. ^ "41.1595° N, 73.3882° W, MoCA Westport". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  9. ^ "63, von ammon co". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  10. ^ "network, The Journal Gallery". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  11. ^ "Various Conditions, Sammlung Friedrichshof". 14 March 2017. Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  12. ^ "Various Conditions, Stadtraum". 14 March 2017. Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  13. ^ "new work, Sperone Westwater". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  14. ^ "Helmut Lang, Sperone Westwater". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  15. ^ "Sculptures, Mark Fletcher". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  16. ^ "Home". thefireplaceproject.com.
  17. ^ "kestnergesellschaft". Archived from the original on 12 February 2009. Retrieved 12 December 2008.
  18. ^ http://www.hl-art.net/past_032c.html [permanent dead link]
  19. ^ hl-art "Helmut Lang Exhibitions"[permanent dead link].
  20. ^ http://www.hl-art.net/sms_purplea.html [permanent dead link]
  21. ^ Purple Fashion Archived 11 October 2007 at the Wayback Machine, Purple Institute, 2007.
  22. ^ Zahm, Olivier Langfroid, Artforum International, October 1995.
  23. ^ "FOCUS GROUP 4, von ammon co". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  24. ^ "FOCUS GROUP 3, von ammon co". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  25. ^ "HOW DOES ONE THINK OF NOTHING?, FF projects". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  26. ^ "Punk Is Coming, MoCA Westport". Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  27. ^ "ALIEN NATION, von ammon co". Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  28. ^ "WOOD WORKS: Raw, Cut, Carved, Covered, Sperone Westwater". Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  29. ^ "everything not saved will be lost, FF projects". Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  30. ^ "FOCUS GROUP II, von ammon co". Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  31. ^ "100 Sculptures, no gallery". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  32. ^ "SMILE, Halsey McKay". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  33. ^ "Sutton, Kate. "SMILE," Artforum". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  34. ^ "Space and Matter, Sperone Westwater". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  35. ^ "The System of Objects, Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  36. ^ "Helmut Lang / Banks Violette / Dan Colen, Mark Fletcher". Retrieved 10 June 2021.
  37. ^ "Commercial Break, Venice Biennale". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  38. ^ "Austria Davaj!, Shchusev Museum of Architecture". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  39. ^ "Not in Fashion, Museum für Moderne Kunst". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  40. ^ "Industrial Light Magic, Goethe-Institut". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  41. ^ "Louise Bourgeois / Jenny Holzer / Helmut Lang, Kunsthalle Wien". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  42. ^ "Art/Fashion, Guggenheim Museum". Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  43. ^ Seabrook, John "The Invincible Designer" Archived 12 May 2008 at the Wayback Machine, The New Yorker, 18 September 2000.
  44. ^ Boyd, Davis. "Helmut Lang" Fashion Windows [1] Archived 5 May 2008 at the Wayback Machine. 2 March 2001
  45. ^ Cressole, Michel. “Une Lancinante Variation en Jersey Zippé" (Review: Helmut Lang A/W 86–87 Collection). Liberation. 1986
  46. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “The Avant-Garde’s Offensive”. International Herald Tribune. 18 Oct.
  47. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “The Avant-Garde Plunges Back To The Middle Ages”. International Herald Tribune. 16 March 1993
  48. ^ Spindler, Amy M. “Lang Points The Way to a New Elegance”. The New York Times. 7 March 1994
  49. ^ Spindler, Amy M. “In Paris, The Outsiders Are Officially In”. The New York Times. 16 Oct
  50. ^ Spindler, Amy M. “Another Sure Step at Helmut Lang”. The New York Times. 15 March 1996
  51. ^ Middleton, Sharon. “Jeans: The Lang View”. Women’s Wear Daily. 14 November 1996
  52. ^ Spindler, Amy M. “The Wild, The Seductive, The Hip”. The New York Times. 12 October 2006.
  53. ^ Prigent, Loic. “Ailes d’Ange et Bottines Rouge Sang” Liberation. 17 Mar
  54. ^ “Helmut’s Angel”. Women’s Wear Daily. 17 March 2007.
  55. ^ Contemporary fashion Archive, "project: helmut lang flagship store new york with installation by jenny holzer" Archived 27 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine 1 January 1997
  56. ^ Foley, Bridget. “The Line From Lang”. Women’s Wear Daily. 17 July 1998
  57. ^ White, Constance C.R. “No Crush: The CD-ROM Runway”. The New York Times. 1 April 1998
  58. ^ Foley, Bridget. “Lang Sets Early Date For His New York Show”. Women’s Wear Daily. 7 July 1998.
  59. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Fast-Forward American Designers Show Their Colors”. International Herald Tribune. 22 September 1998.
  60. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “European Designers Score on Creativity in New York:”. International Herald Tribune. 21 September 1999
  61. ^ Borgonovo, Carmen. “Lang’s New Angle.” Women’s Wear Daily. 13 September 1999
  62. ^ Armstrong, Lisa. “Enter Millennium Woman”. The Times. 22 December 2000.
  63. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Bondage to Graphics: Sex in The City”. International Herald Tribune 23 September 2000.
  64. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Body Language, Laud and Clear”. International Herald Tribune. 20 February 2001
  65. ^ Deeny, Godfrey. “Helmut Lang to Stage Men’s Collection in Paris”. Fashion Wire Daily. 28 May 2002.
  66. ^ Mouzat, Virgine. “Emanuel Ungaro, Le Sud, Helmut Lang, Le Retour, Le Figaro. 5 October 2002.
  67. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [2] Archived 27 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine 4 October 2002
  68. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Lang Solves The Puzzle”. International Herald Tribune, 8 March], 2003.
  69. ^ a b Contemporary Fashion Archive "fashion product: t-shirt and cd. collaboration louise bourgeois/helmut lang" Archived 27 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine 1 January 2003
  70. ^ Deeny, Godfrey.”Helmut Lang Goes Into Action”. Fashion Wire Daily, 27 January 2003
  71. ^ Frankel, Susannah. “ New-Look Lang Embraces a Rainbow of Colors”. The Independent, 10 October. 2003
  72. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Helmut Lang and His Search For Modern Romance”. International Herald Tribune, 5 March 2004.
  73. ^ Menkes, Suzy, “Lang: Luxury With a Glint”. International Herald Tribune, 27 January 2004.
  74. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive "fashion product: janus in leather jacket. collaboration louise bourgeois/helmut lang" Archived 27 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine 1 March 2004
  75. ^ Menkes, Suzy. “Upscale Architecture at Saint Laurent; Dior Revived Grunge”. International Herald Tribune, 6 July 2004.
  76. ^ hl-art "Helmut Lang Bio"[permanent dead link].
  77. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [3] Archived 28 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine.
  78. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [4] Archived 28 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine.
  79. ^ Fashion Windows "Helmut Lang" Archived 5 May 2008 at the Wayback Machine.
  80. ^ a b c d e f g h i Socha, Miles. "Helmut Lang Furthers Asian Retail Expansion". Women's Wear Daily 4 August 2000
  81. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [5] Archived 28 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine.
  82. ^ a b Alfano, Jennifer. "Inner Sanctum". V Man September 2004
  83. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [6] Archived 28 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine.
  84. ^ Contemporary Fashion Archive [7] Archived 28 July 2009 at the Wayback Machine.
  85. ^ "Reply to a parliamentary question" (PDF) (in German). p. 1897. Retrieved 2 January 2013.
  86. ^ "Armstrong, Annie. "'There is No Plan B': Helmut Lang on Turning His Fashion Archive into Sculpture." artnews.com (ARTnews). 19 September 2019". 19 September 2019. Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  87. ^ Belcove, Julie L. (6 January 2015). "Belcove, Julie L. "From Fashion to Art: Helmut Lang's Second Act." wsj.com (WSJ.). 6 January 2015". Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  88. ^ "Borrelli-Persson, Laird. "'No Regrets.' Helmut Lang Speaks About His 'Living Archive' Intervention at the MAK in Vienna and His Work in Fashion." vogue.com (Vogue). 26 February 2020". 26 February 2020. Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  89. ^ "W*115: The guest editors – News – Wallpaper.com – International Design Interiors Fashion Travel". Archived from the original on 9 February 2009. Retrieved 6 March 2009.
  90. ^ "Gavin, Francesca. "A Rare Interview with Helmut Lang." anothermag.com (AnOther Magazine). 20 September 2019". 20 September 2019. Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  91. ^ McGrath, Charles (May 2012). "McGrath, Charles. "A Seamless Transition From Fashion to Art." The New York Times. 1 May 2012". The New York Times. Retrieved 11 June 2021.
  92. ^ "Thompson, Allese. "500 Words: Helmut Lang." artforum.com (Artforum). 16 January 2015". Retrieved 11 June 2021.

External links

Wikiquote has quotations related to Helmut Lang.