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Норвич

Норвич ( / ˈ n ɒr ɪ , - ɪ / ) —соборный городи район графстваНорфолк, Англия, в котором он является главнымгородом графства. Он расположен нареке Венсум, примерно в 100 милях (160 км) к северо-востоку от Лондона, в 40 милях (64 км) к северу отИпсвичаи в 65 милях (105 км) к востоку отПитерборо. Населениегородского совета Норвичаоценивалось в 144 000 человек в 2021 году, что является ростом по сравнению с 143 135 в 2019 году.[3]более широкойзастроенной территориив 2019 году составляло 213 166 человек.[1]

Как местонахождение престола Норвича , город имеет один из крупнейших средневековых соборов страны. На протяжении большей части второго тысячелетия, от средневековья до периода, непосредственно предшествующего индустриальному , Норвич был одним из самых процветающих и крупных городов Англии; в какой-то момент он уступал только Лондону. [4] Сегодня это крупнейшее поселение в Восточной Англии . [5]

Наследие и статус

Норвич претендует на звание самого полного средневекового города в Соединенном Королевстве. [6] Он включает в себя мощеные улицы, такие как Элм-Хилл , Тимбер-Хилл и Томбленд; старинные здания, такие как Сент-Эндрюс-Холл ; фахверковые дома, такие как Драконий зал , Гилдхолл и Зал незнакомцев ; модерн Королевской аркады 1899 года ; множество средневековых переулков; и извилистую реку Венсум, которая протекает через центр города к замку Норвич . [6]

В мае 2012 года Норидж был назван первым в Англии городом литературы ЮНЕСКО . [7] Это одно из популярных туристических направлений Великобритании, в 2016 году он был признан The Guardian «самым счастливым городом для работы в Великобритании» [8] , а в 2013 году — одним из лучших малых городов мира по версии The Times Good University Guide . [9] В 2018, 2019 и 2020 годах Норидж был признан одним из «лучших мест для жизни» в Великобритании по версии The Sunday Times . [10] [11]

История

Источник

Столицей племени иценов было поселение, расположенное недалеко от деревни Кайстор-Сент-Эдмунд на реке Тас, примерно в 5 милях (8 км) к югу от современного Норвича. [12] После восстания под предводительством Боудикки около 60 г. н. э. район Кайстор стал римской столицей Восточной Англии под названием Вента Айсенорум , что буквально означает «рынок иценов». [12] Он пришел в упадок около 450 г. н. э.

Англосаксы поселились на месте современного города где-то между V и VII веками, [13] основав города Нортвик («Северная ферма»), от которого Норидж получил свое название, [ 14] и ВествикНоридж-овер-зе-Уотере ) и меньшее поселение в Торпе. Норидж стал городом в X веке, а затем стал важным центром торговли и коммерции Восточной Англии. [ необходима цитата ]

Раннее английское и нормандское завоевание

Нориджский собор — одно из величайших нормандских сооружений Англии.

Возможно, что три отдельных ранних англосаксонских поселения, одно к северу от реки и два по обе стороны от нее на юге, объединились по мере своего роста; или что единое англосаксонское поселение к северу от реки возникло в середине VII века после того, как предыдущие три были заброшены. Древний город был процветающим центром торговли и коммерции в Восточной Англии в 1004 году, когда он был захвачен и сожжен Свеном Вилобородым , королем викингов Дании. Мерсийские монеты и черепки керамики из Рейнской области, датируемые VIII веком, свидетельствуют о том, что дальняя торговля велась задолго до этого. Между 924 и 939 годами Норвич полностью утвердился как город со своим собственным монетным двором. Слово Norvic появляется на монетах по всей Европе, отчеканенных в этот период, во время правления короля Ательстана . Викинги оказали сильное культурное влияние на Норвич в течение 40–50 лет в конце IX века, основав англо-скандинавский район около северного конца современной Кинг-стрит. Во времена нормандского завоевания город был одним из крупнейших в Англии. В Книге Страшного суда говорится, что в нем было около 25 церквей и население от 5000 до 10 000 человек. В ней также упоминается местонахождение англосаксонской церкви в Томбленде, местонахождение саксонской рыночной площади и позднее нормандского собора . Норвич продолжал оставаться крупным центром торговли, официально именуемым портом Норвича . Во время раскопок в центре города Норвич были найдены жернова и другие артефакты из Скандинавии и Рейнской области. Они датируются XI веком и далее.

Крепость замка Норидж , построенная в XII веке

Замок Норидж был основан вскоре после нормандского завоевания. [15] В Книге Страшного суда записано , что 98 саксонских домов были снесены, чтобы освободить место для замка. [16] Норманны основали новый центр поселения вокруг замка и области к западу от него: это стало известно как «Новый» или «Французский» район, с центром на собственной рыночной площади норманнов, которая сохранилась до наших дней как рынок Нориджа, крупнейший постоянный крытый рынок в Европе. [6]

В 1096 году Герберт де Лосинга , епископ Тетфорда , начал строительство собора в Норидже . Главным строительным материалом для собора был известняк, импортируемый из Кана в Нормандии. Чтобы перевезти строительный камень на место, от реки (от места современного Пуллс-Ферри) до восточной стены был прорыт канал. Затем Герберт де Лосинга перенес туда свою кафедру , в то, что стало кафедральным собором епархии Нориджа . Епископ Нориджа до сих пор подписывает себя Норвич . Норидж получил королевскую грамоту от Генриха II в 1158 году, а другую — от Ричарда Львиное Сердце в 1194 году. После беспорядков в городе в 1274 году Норидж стал единственным полностью английским городом, отлученным от церкви Папой. [17]

Средний возраст

Первое зарегистрированное присутствие евреев в Норвиче относится к 1134 году. [18] В 1144 году евреи Норвича были ложно обвинены в ритуальном убийстве после того, как мальчик ( Уильям Норвичский ) был найден мертвым с ножевыми ранениями. [18] Уильям приобрел статус мученика и впоследствии был канонизирован . Паломники приносили подношения святыне в соборе (в основном законченном к 1140 году) вплоть до XVI века, но записи свидетельствуют о том, что их было немного. [19] В 1174 году Норвич был разграблен фламандцами . В феврале 1190 года все евреи Норвича были убиты, за исключением нескольких, которые нашли убежище в замке. На месте средневекового колодца в 2004 году рабочие, готовившие землю для строительства торгового центра в Норвиче, нашли кости 17 человек, в том числе 11 детей. Судебно-медицинские эксперты определили, что останки, скорее всего, принадлежат убитым евреям, а эксперт по ДНК установил, что все жертвы были родственниками, так что они, вероятно, происходили из одной семьи ашкеназских евреев . [20] Исследование останков было показано в эпизоде ​​телевизионного документального сериала BBC History Cold Case . [21] Исследовательская работа от 30 августа 2022 года подтвердила, что останки, скорее всего, принадлежали евреям-ашкеназам. В работе было обнаружено, что у многих жертв были определенные медицинские расстройства, наиболее часто встречающиеся в общинах ашкеназов, что позволяет предположить, что до XII века среди ашкеназов наблюдался дефицит населения . [22] Это поставило под сомнение традиционные взгляды историков на то, что дефицит произошел между XIV и XVI веками. [23] [24]

Ворота Святого Этельберта в Томбленде были построены в качестве наказания за беспорядки, произошедшие в 1270-х годах.

В 1216 году замок пал перед Людовиком, дофином Франции, и была основана больница Хильдебранда, а десять лет спустя — францисканский и доминиканский монастыри. Большая больница датируется 1249 годом, а колледж Святой Марии в поле — 1250 годом. В 1256 году был основан Уайтфрайарс. В 1266 году город был разграблен «лишенными наследства». Он отличается тем, что является единственным английским городом, когда-либо отлученным от церкви после бунта между горожанами и монахами в 1274 году. [17]

С 1280 по 1340 год были построены городские стены . Около 2+Эти стены, протяженностью 12  мили (4,0 км), вместе с рекой охватывали большую территорию, чем лондонский Сити . Однако, когда были построены городские стены, строительство за их пределами было запрещено, что препятствовало расширению города. Часть этих стен сохранилась и по сей день. Примерно в это же время город получил статус графства и стал резиденцией одного из самых густонаселенных и процветающих графств Англии. Двигателем торговли была шерсть с овчарных пастбищ Норфолка. Шерсть сделала Англию богатой, и основной порт Норвич «в ее штате стоит С городами самого высокого положения четвертой частью всей земли», какотметил Майкл Дрейтон в Poly-Olbion (1612). Богатство, полученное от торговли шерстью на протяжении Средних веков, финансировало строительство многих прекрасных церквей, так что в Норвиче до сих пор больше средневековых церквей, чем в любом другом городе Западной Европы к северу от Альп . В течение этого периода Норвич установил широкие торговые связи с другими частями Европы, его рынки простирались от Скандинавии до Испании, а в городе находился ганзейский склад. Для организации и контроля экспорта в страны Бенилюкса Грейт-Ярмут, как порт Норвича, был назначен одним из основных портов в соответствии с положениями Статута о основных портах 1353 года .

Ранний современный период (1485–1640)

Рука об руку с шерстяной промышленностью этот ключевой религиозный центр пережил Реформацию, значительно отличающуюся от Реформации в других частях Англии. Магистрат в Тюдоровском Норвиче необычным образом нашел способы управления религиозными разногласиями, сохраняя при этом гражданскую гармонию. [25]

«Маусхолд Хит», Норвич, художник из Норфолка Джон Кром

Летом 1549 года в Норфолке произошло беспрецедентное восстание. В отличие от других популярных выступлений в период Тюдоров, оно, по-видимому, носило протестантский характер. В течение нескольких недель мятежники под предводительством Роберта Кетта разбили лагерь за пределами Норвича на пустоши Маусхолд и 29 июля 1549 года при поддержке многих его бедных жителей взяли город под контроль. Восстание Кетта было в частности ответом на огораживание земель землевладельцами, из-за чего крестьянам негде было пасти своих животных, и на общее злоупотребление властью со стороны дворянства. Восстание закончилось 27 августа, когда мятежники были разгромлены армией. Кетт был признан виновным в измене и повешен на стенах замка Норвич. [26] [27] [28]

Необычно для Англии, что восстание разделило город и, по-видимому, связало протестантизм с тяжелым положением городской бедноты. В случае с Норвичем этот процесс был подчеркнут позже прибытием голландских и фламандских « чужестранцев », спасавшихся от преследований со стороны католиков и в конечном итоге составивших до одной трети населения города. [29] Большое количество таких изгнанников прибыло в город, особенно фламандских протестантов из Вестквартьера («Западного квартала»), региона в Южных Нидерландах , где распространились первые кальвинистские костры Голландского восстания . Жители Ипра , в частности, выбрали Норвич среди других направлений. [30] Возможно, в ответ на Кетта, Норвич стал первым провинциальным городом, инициировавшим обязательные платежи по гражданской схеме помощи бедным, что, как утверждается, привело к ее более широкому внедрению, составив основу более позднего елизаветинского Закона о бедных 1597–1598 годов. [31]

Норвич традиционно был домом для различных меньшинств, в частности фламандских и бельгийских валлонских общин в 16-м и 17-м веках. Великая иммиграция «чужестранцев» 1567 года привела в Норвич значительную фламандскую и валлонскую общину протестантских ткачей , где, как говорят, их приняли радушно. [32] Дом торговца, который был их самой ранней базой в городе — теперь музей — до сих пор известен как Зал чужестранцев . Кажется, что чужестранцы интегрировались в местное сообщество без особой враждебности, по крайней мере, среди делового братства, которое больше всего выигрывало от их навыков. Их прибытие в Норвич усилило торговлю с материковой Европой и способствовало движению к религиозной реформе и радикальной политике в городе. Напротив, после преследований со стороны англиканской церкви за его пуританские убеждения, Майкл Меткалф , ткач из Норвича в 17-м веке, бежал из города и поселился в Дедхэме, штат Массачусетс . [33]

Норвичская канарейка была впервые завезена в Англию фламандцами, спасавшимися от испанских преследований в XVI веке. Наряду с передовыми методами обработки текстиля они привезли с собой домашних канареек, которых начали разводить на месте, и в конечном итоге в XX веке они стали талисманом города и эмблемой его футбольного клуба Norwich City FC : «Канарейки». Книгопечатание было введено в город в 1567 году Энтони де Солемпном, одним из чужеземцев, но оно не прижилось и вымерло примерно к 1572 году. [34] Герб Норвича впервые был зарегистрирован в 1562 году. Он описывается как: Gules a Castle с тремя башнями и куполом Argent in base a Lion passant guardant [или Leopard] Or. Предполагается, что замок представляет Норвичский замок, а лев, взятый из Королевского герба Англии , мог быть дарован королем Эдуардом III . [35]

От гражданской войны до викторианской эпохи

В английской гражданской войне , в восточных графствах, могущественная Восточная ассоциация Оливера Кромвеля в конечном итоге стала доминирующей. Однако, изначально, в Норвиче был большой элемент симпатий к роялистам, который, похоже, испытывал преемственность своей двусторонней политической традиции на протяжении всего периода. Епископ Мэтью Рен был ярым сторонником Карла I. Тем не менее, парламентская вербовка устоялась. Сильная роялистская партия была подавлена ​​отсутствием приверженности со стороны олдерменов и изоляцией от регионов, удерживаемых роялистами. [36] Серьезные межфракционные беспорядки достигли кульминации в «Великом ударе» 1648 года, когда парламентские силы попытались подавить бунт роялистов. Порох последнего был случайно взорван в центре города, вызвав хаос. По словам Хоппера, [37] этот взрыв «входит в число крупнейших за столетие». Хотя Восточную Англию стойко защищала парламентская армия, говорят, что в Норвиче были пабы, где по-прежнему пили за здоровье короля и воспевали имя протектора в непристойных стихах.

Ценой некоторого дискомфорта для мэра, умеренный Джозеф Холл стал мишенью из-за своей должности епископа Норвича. Норвич был отмечен в период после Реставрации 1660 года и в последующем столетии золотым веком своей суконной промышленности, сравнимым только с таковыми в Уэст-Кантри и Йоркшире, [38] но в отличие от других регионов производства тканей, ткачество Норвича привело к большей урбанизации, в основном сосредоточенной в окрестностях самого города, создавая городское общество с такими особенностями, как свободное время, пивные и другие публичные форумы для дебатов и споров. [39]

Основанная в 1771 году больница Норфолка и Норвича заботилась о бедных и больных в городе. Она закрылась в 2003 году после того, как услуги были переведены в университетскую больницу Норфолка и Норвича .

В конце XVII века Норидж был раздроблен политически. Священник Хамфри Прайдо описал «две фракции, вигов и тори , и обе борются за свой путь с крайней жестокостью». [40] Город также не принял итог Славной революции 1688 года единым голосом. Выдающийся гражданин, епископ Уильям Ллойд, не стал приносить клятвы верности новым монархам. В одном из сообщений говорится, что в 1704 году владелец пивной Фаулера «со стаканом пива в руке опустился на колени и выпил за здоровье Якова III, пожелав короне [sic] всего наилучшего, и устроился у него на голове». [41]

В своих записях начала XVIII века Паунд описывает богатую культурную жизнь города, зимний театральный сезон, празднества, сопровождавшие летние выездные заседания, и другие популярные развлечения. Норвич был самым богатым городом в Англии, с развитой системой помощи бедным и большим притоком иностранных беженцев. [42] Несмотря на серьезные вспышки чумы, население города составляло почти 30 000 человек. Это делало Норвич уникальным в Англии, хотя в Европе было около 50 городов аналогичного размера. В некоторых городах, таких как Лион и Дрезден , это было, как в случае с Норвичем, связано с важной прото-промышленностью, такой как текстильная или фарфоровая керамика, в некоторых, таких как Вена , Мадрид и Дублин , со статусом города как административной столицы, а в некоторых, таких как Антверпен , Марсель и Кельн, с положением на важном морском или речном торговом пути. [a]

В 1716 году на пьесе в New Inn Самозванца приветствовали, а зрители освистывали и шипели каждый раз, когда упоминалось имя короля Георга . В 1722 году сторонников короля, как говорили, «освистывали и ругали, когда они шли по улицам», а в 1731 году «толпа тори в большом составе прошла через несколько частей этого города, в буйной манере, проклиная и оскорбляя тех, кого они знали как друзей правительства». [b] Однако виги постепенно захватили контроль, и к 1720-м годам они успешно подали петицию в парламент, чтобы разрешить всем взрослым мужчинам, работающим в текстильной промышленности, обрести свободу, при правильном предположении, что они будут голосовать за вигов. Но это имело эффект усиления популярного якобитизма в городе , говорит Найтс, и состязания такого рода продолжались в Норвиче вплоть до периода, когда политическая стабильность была замечена на национальном уровне. Городской якобитизм, возможно, закончился только в 1745 году, намного позже того, как он перестал быть значительным движением за пределами Шотландии. [41] Несмотря на то, что горцы достигли Дерби , а граждане Норвича объединились в ассоциацию для защиты города, некоторые тори отказались присоединиться, и ризница Св. Питера Мэнкрофта решила, что не будет звонить в колокола, призывая на защиту. Тем не менее, это был конец пути для якобитов Норвича, и виги организовали знаменательное празднование после битвы при Каллодене . [41]

События этого периода иллюстрируют, как в Норвиче была сильная традиция народного протеста в пользу Церкви и Стюартов, связанная с улицей и пивной. Найтс рассказывает, как в 1716 году выборы мэра закончились беспорядками, когда обе стороны бросали друг в друга «обломки кирпичей и большие камни мостовой». [41] Знаменитый якобитский питейный дом, Blue Bell Inn (ныне The Bell Hotel ), принадлежавший в начале 18 века семье высокопоставленных церковников Хелвис, стал центральным местом встречи Общества революции Норвича в 1790-х годах. [43]

Первая провинциальная газета Британии, Norwich Post , появилась в 1701 году. К 1726 году появились конкурирующие типографии вигов и тори, и уже в середине века три четверти мужчин в некоторых приходах были грамотными. [c] Муниципальная библиотека Норвича утверждает, что имеет прекрасную коллекцию этих газет, а также коллекцию фолио альбомов о политике Норвича XVIII века, которые, по словам Найтса, «ценны и важны». В 1701 году в пивных Норвича было 281 клуб и общество, проводившее встречи, и до 1758 года было образовано не менее 138 других. В 1758 году открылся Королевский театр , наряду с городскими сценическими постановками в гостиницах и кукольными представлениями в шумных пивных. [44] [45] В 1750 году Норвич мог похвастаться девятью книготорговцами, а после 1780 года «растущим числом циркулирующих и подписных библиотек». [46] Knights 2004 говорит: «[Все это] способствовало созданию живой политической культуры, в которой независимость от правительственных линий была особенно сильна, что было очевидно в кампаниях против войны с Америкой и за реформы... в которых торговля и влияние войны с революционной Францией были ключевыми составляющими. Открытая и оспариваемая структура местного самоуправления, пресса, клубы и общества, а также инакомыслие — все это гарантировало, что политика пересекалась с сообществами, связанными экономикой, религией, идеологией и печатью в мире, в котором общественное мнение нельзя было игнорировать». [41]

Часовня Октагон, Норидж

Среди этой столичной культуры городские бюргеры построили сложную политическую структуру. Свободных людей, которые имели право торговать и голосовать на выборах, в 1690 году насчитывалось около 2000, а к середине 1730-х годов их число возросло до более чем 3300. С ростом, отчасти обусловленным политическими манипуляциями, их число в какой-то момент достигло одной трети взрослого мужского населения. [41] Это был печально известный век «гнилых» и «карманных» местечек, и Норвич был необычен тем, что имел такую ​​высокую долю своих граждан, имеющих право голоса. «Из политических центров, куда якобинская пропаганда проникла наиболее глубоко, только Норвич и Ноттингем имели достаточно глубокое избирательное право, чтобы позволить радикалам использовать избирательный процесс». [47] «За исключением Лондона, Норвич, вероятно, все еще был крупнейшим из тех местечек, которые управлялись демократически», — говорит Джуисон в 1975 году, описывая другие города, находящиеся под контролем одного феодального владения . В Норвиче, говорит он, могущественное англиканское сообщество, символом которого является собор и большая церковь Святого Петра Мэнкрофта, соседствовало с едва ли менее могущественными группами инакомыслящих во главе с богатой образованной группой [унитарианцев], молящихся в часовне Октагон . [48]

Карта Нориджа 1781 г.

В разгар политических беспорядков конца XVIII века интеллектуальная жизнь Норвича процветала. Харриет Мартино писала о городских литераторах того периода, включая таких людей, как Уильям Тейлор , один из первых английских ученых-немецковедов. Город «хвастался своими интеллектуальными ужинами, где среди педантизма, который сейчас заставил бы смеяться обоих, было много приятного и полезного: и, наконец, она называла себя Афинами Англии ». [49]

Святой Петр Манкрофт

Несмотря на давнее промышленное процветание Норвича, к 1790-м годам его шерстяная торговля начала сталкиваться с острой конкуренцией, сначала со стороны йоркширской шерсти, а затем, все больше, со стороны ланкаширского хлопка. Последствия усугублялись потерей континентальных рынков после того, как Британия вступила в войну с Францией в 1793 году. [d] В начале 19-го века произошла деиндустриализация, сопровождавшаяся ожесточенными ссорами. 1820-е годы были отмечены сокращением заработной платы и личными обвинениями против владельцев. Таким образом, среди богатого коммерческого и культурного наследия своего недавнего прошлого, Норвич в 1790-х годах страдал от начинающегося упадка, усугубленного серьезным спадом торговли.

Еще в начале войны в 1793 году крупный городской производитель и сторонник правительства Роберт Харви жаловался на низкие заказы книг, вялую торговлю и удвоение налога на бедных. [e] Как и многие их предки из Норвича, голодные бедняки вынесли свои жалобы на улицы. Хейс описывает собрание 200 человек в трактире Норвича, где выступал «гражданин Стэнхоуп». [f] Собравшиеся «[разразились] аплодисментами заявлению Стэнхоупа о том, что министры, если они не изменят свою политику, заслуживают того, чтобы их головы были отправлены на плаху; – и если в Англии еще остались люди, то так оно и могло бы быть». Хейс говорит, что «начало войны, почти остановившее производство шерстяных тканей и тем самым ввергнувшее массу ткачей Норвича во внезапную нищету, сделало почти неизбежным, что грубый призыв к негодованию рабочего класса должен был занять место умеренного процесса образования, который намеревались проводить самые ранние реформаторы». [50]

В этот период оппозиция правительству Питта и их войне исходила — в их случае почти единогласно — из круга радикальных интеллектуалов-диссидентов, заинтересованных в своих собственных правах. В их число входили семьи Ригби, Тейлор, Эйткин, Барболд и Олдерсон — все унитарианцы — и некоторые из квакеров Герни (одна из дочерей которых, Элизабет , позже, под своей замужней фамилией Фрай, стала известным борцом за тюремную реформу). Их деятельность включала визиты в революционную Францию ​​(до казни Людовика XVI ), самые ранние британские исследования немецкой литературы, исследования по медицинской науке, подачу петиций о парламентской реформе и публикацию высоколобого литературного журнала под названием «Кабинет» в 1795 году. Их смесь политики, религии и социальной агитации была расценена Питтом и Уиндхэмом как подозрительная, что побудило Питта осудить Норвич как «якобинский город». Эдмунд Берк нападал на Джона Герни в печати за спонсирование антивоенных протестов. В 1790-х годах Норидж был вторым после Лондона активным интеллектуальным центром в Англии, и он не вернул себе этот уровень известности до тех пор, пока в конце 20 века не был основан Университет Восточной Англии . [51]

К 1795 году беспокойство правительства вызывала не только чернь из Норвича. В апреле того же года было основано Патриотическое общество Норвича, в манифесте которого говорилось, что «великая цель гражданского общества — всеобщее счастье; что каждый человек имеет право участвовать в правительстве». [52] В декабре цена на хлеб достигла нового пика, и в мае 1796 года, когда Уильям Уиндхэм был вынужден добиваться переизбрания после своего назначения на пост военного министра, он едва удержал свое место. [g] Среди беспорядков и насилия, которые были столь распространенной чертой избирательных кампаний в Норвиче, радикальный Бартлетт Герни («Мир и Герни — больше никакой войны — больше никакого ячменного хлеба») не смог его сместить лишь с минимальным перевесом. [53]

Хотя двухпартийная политическая культура Норвича в 1790-х годах была информирована о проблемах недавнего национального значения, ее нельзя отделить от местной традиции. Две особенности выделяются из политического континуума трех столетий. Первая — дихотомический баланс сил. По крайней мере со времен Реформации Норвич был записан как «двухпартийный город». В середине XVI века ткацкие приходы попали под контроль оппозиционных сил, поскольку мятежники Кетта удерживали север реки, поддерживая бедных суконщиков. Действительно, кажется, есть основания говорить, что с этой традицией двустороннего диспута город неуклонно развивал инфраструктуру, очевидную в его многочисленных культурных и институциональных сетях политики, религии, общества, новостных СМИ и искусства, посредством которых спор можно было урегулировать, не доходя до прямой конфронтации. Действительно, в период голода и напряженности на улицах Нориджа, когда толпы посетителей пивных были готовы «отправить голову священника на плаху», англиканское и диссентерское духовенство приложило все усилия для ведения коллегиального диалога, ища общую почву и укрепляя благовоспитанные гражданские традиции более ранних периодов.

Surrey House , историческая штаб-квартира страховой компании Norwich Union

В 1797 году Томас Бигнолд , 36-летний торговец вином и банкир, основал первое общество Norwich Union Society . Несколькими годами ранее, когда он переехал из Кента в Норвич, Бигнолд не смог найти никого, кто согласился бы застраховать его от угрозы со стороны разбойников. С предпринимательской мыслью, что нет ничего невозможного, и понимая, что в городе, построенном в основном из дерева, угроза пожара была превыше всего в умах людей, Бигнолд основал «Общество Norwich Union по страхованию домов, запасов и товаров от огня». Новый бизнес, который стал известен как Norwich Union Fire Insurance Office, был «взаимным» предприятием. Norwich Union позже станет крупнейшим страховым гигантом страны.

С самых ранних времен Норидж был текстильным центром. В 1780-х годах производство нориджских шалей стало важной отраслью промышленности [54] и оставалось таковым в течение почти ста лет. Шали были высококачественным модным продуктом и конкурировали с шалями других городов, таких как Пейсли , который начал производить шали примерно в 1805 году, примерно через 20 или более лет после Нориджа. С изменениями в женской моде в поздний викторианский период популярность шалей снизилась, и в конечном итоге производство прекратилось. Образцы нориджских шалей сейчас востребованы коллекционерами текстиля.

Географическая изоляция Норвича была такова, что до 1845 года, когда было установлено железнодорожное сообщение, часто было быстрее добираться до Амстердама на лодке, чем до Лондона. Железная дорога была введена в Норвич Мортоном Пето , который также построил линию до Грейт-Ярмута . С 1808 по 1814 год в Норвиче была станция в цепи ставенчатого телеграфа , которая соединяла Адмиралтейство в Лондоне с его военными кораблями в порту Грейт-Ярмута . Постоянное военное присутствие было установлено в городе с завершением строительства казарм Британия в 1897 году. [55] Строевые залы на Бетел-стрит и Кэтл-Маркет-стрит были построены примерно в то же время. [56]

20 век

Парк Ватерлоо, один из шести парков, построенных в 1930-х годах для борьбы с безработицей в городе.

В начале 20-го века в Норвиче все еще было несколько крупных производственных отраслей. Среди них были крупномасштабное и индивидуальное производство обуви (например, бренды Start-rite и Van Dal, Bowhill & Elliott и Cheney & Sons Ltd соответственно), одежды, столярных изделий (включая производителей мебели и розничного продавца мебели Arthur Brett and Sons , который продолжает свою деятельность в 21-м веке), структурное проектирование, а также проектирование и производство самолетов. Известными работодателями были Boulton & Paul , Barnards (литейщики чугуна и изобретатели машинного производства проволочной сетки ) и инженеры-электрики Laurence Scott и Electromotors.

Норвич также имеет давнюю связь с производством шоколада, в основном через местную фирму Caley's, которая начинала как производитель и бутилировщик минеральной воды, а затем диверсифицировалась в шоколад и рождественские крекеры . Бизнес по производству крекеров Caley's был передан Тому Смиту в 1953 году, [57] а фабрика Norwich на Salhouse Road закрылась в 1998 году. Caley's была приобретена Mackintosh в 1930-х годах и слилась с Rowntree's в 1969 году, став Rowntree-Mackintosh. Наконец, она была куплена Nestlé и закрыта в 1996 году, при этом все операции переехали в Йорк после 120-летнего сотрудничества с Норвичем. Снесенная фабрика стояла там, где сейчас находится застройка Chapelfield. С тех пор шоколад Caley's снова появился как бренд в городе, хотя он больше там не производится. [58]

HMSO , когда-то официальное издательское и канцелярское подразделение британского правительства и один из крупнейших покупателей печатной продукции, типографий и поставщиков офисного оборудования в Великобритании, перенесло большую часть своих операций из Лондона в Норидж в 1970-х годах. Оно занимало специально построенное здание Sovereign House 1968 года, недалеко от Anglia Square, которое в 2017 году пустовало и подлежало сносу, если бы долго откладываемая перестройка Anglia Square состоялась. [59]

Универмаг Jarrolds существует в Норидже с 1823 года.

Jarrolds , основанная в 1810 году, была общенационально известной типографией и издательством. В 2004 году, спустя почти 200 лет, типографский и издательский бизнесы были проданы. Сегодня компания остается частной, а имя Jarrold наиболее узнаваемо как имя единственного независимого универмага в Норвиче . Компания также занимается развитием недвижимости в Норвиче и имеет подразделение бизнес-обучения. [60]

Пабы и пивоварение

Город имел давнюю традицию пивоварения. [61] Несколько крупных пивоварен продолжали работать во второй половине 20-го века, в частности Morgans, Steward & Patteson , Youngs Crawshay and Youngs, Bullard and Son и Norwich Brewery. Несмотря на поглощения и консолидации в 1950-х и 1960-х годах, к 1970-м годам осталась только Norwich Brewery (принадлежавшая Уотни Манну и находившаяся на месте Morgans). Она тоже закрылась в 1985 году и затем была снесена. Сегодня сохранились только мини-пивоварни . [62]

Уолтер Уикс в своей книге утверждал, что в Норвиче когда-то был «паб на каждый день года и церковь на каждое воскресенье». На самом деле это было значительно меньше фактического количества: наибольшее количество пабов в городе было в 1870 году, более 780 пивных. «Карта напитков», выпущенная в 1892 году Норвичским и Норфолкским евангельским союзом трезвости, показывала 631 паб в центре города и вокруг него. К 1900 году их число сократилось до 441 паба в пределах городских стен. Название паба на каждый день года сохранялось до 1966 года, когда главный констебль сообщил судьям по лицензированию, что только 355 лицензий все еще действуют, и их число продолжает сокращаться: более 25 были закрыты за последнее десятилетие. [63] В 2018 году около 100 пабов оставались открытыми вокруг центра города.

Вторая мировая война

Норвич сильно пострадал от бомбардировок во время Второй мировой войны , затронув большую часть старого центра города и викторианские террасные дома вокруг центра. Промышленность и железнодорожная инфраструктура также пострадали. Самые тяжелые налеты произошли в ночи с 27 на 28 и с 29 на 30 апреля 1942 года; в рамках рейдов Бедекера (так называемых, потому что серия туристических путеводителей Бедекера по Британским островам использовалась для выбора пропагандистски насыщенных целей культурного и исторического значения, а не стратегического значения). Лорд Хау-Хау упомянул о неизбежном разрушении новой мэрии Норвича (завершенной в 1938 году), хотя в итоге она уцелела невредимой. Среди важных целей, подвергшихся нападению, были здание пивоварни Моргана, завод Винкарниса Колмана , Сити-Стейшн , шоколадная фабрика Макинтош и торговые районы, включая улицы Святого Стефана и Святого Бенедикта, где располагались универмаги Bond's (ныне John Lewis ) и Curl's (позднее Debenhams).

229 граждан погибли в двух рейдах Бедекера, 1000 получили ранения, а 340 пострадали от бомбардировок в течение всей войны, что дало Нориджу самые высокие потери от воздушных налетов в Восточной Англии. Из 35 000 жилых домов в Норидже 2 000 были разрушены, а еще 27 000 получили некоторые повреждения. [64] В 1945 году город также был предполагаемой целью короткой кампании ракет V-2 , хотя все они промахнулись мимо самого города. [65] [66]

Послевоенная реконструкция

Университет Восточной Англии , открытый в 1963 году

Когда война закончилась, городской совет раскрыл, над чем он работал до войны. Это было опубликовано в виде книги — « План города Норидж 1945» или широко известный как «План '45» [67] — грандиозный план масштабной реконструкции, который так и не был должным образом реализован. Однако в течение 1960-х и до начала 1970-х годов город был полностью изменен, и большие площади Нориджа были расчищены, чтобы освободить место для современной реконструкции.

В 1960 году район Ричмонда внутри города, между улицами Бер-стрит и Кинг-стрит, известный как «Деревня на холме», был признан трущобами, и многие жители были вынуждены покинуть его из-за принудительных распоряжений о выкупе старых террас и переулков. Весь снесенный район состоял из примерно 56 акров существующих улиц, включая 833 жилых дома (612 из которых были классифицированы как непригодные для проживания людей), 42 магазина, четыре офиса, 22 паба и две школы. [68] Сообщества были перемещены в высотные здания, такие как Normandie Tower, и новые жилые комплексы, такие как Tuckswood, которые строились в то время. Вместо этого была построена новая дорога, Rouen Road, состоящая в основном из легких промышленных предприятий и муниципальных квартир. Ber Street , некогда историческая главная дорога в город, была снесена полностью. Примерно в это же время была снесена последняя часть улицы Святого Петра, напротив церкви Святого Петра Мэнкрофта , а также большие таунхаусы в георгианском стиле в верхней части улицы Бетел, чтобы освободить место для новой городской библиотеки в 1961 году. [64] Она сгорела 1 августа 1994 года и была заменена в 2001 году зданием Форума .

В конце 1960-х годов был реализован спорный план внутренней кольцевой дороги Нориджа. В 1931 году городской архитектор Роберт Аткинсон, ссылаясь на Городскую стену, заметил, что «почти в каждом месте находятся трущобные жилища, построенные за последние 50 лет. Было бы большим приключением расчистить их все и открыть дорогу, следующую за стеной, которая всегда была естественной магистралью. Сделайте это, и у вас будет прекрасный циркулирующий бульвар по всему городу, и его стоимость будет сравнительно небольшой». [69] Для размещения дороги было снесено еще много зданий, включая древнюю транспортную развязку — Стамп-Кросс. Магдален-стрит, Ботольф-стрит, Сент-Джордж-стрит, Калверт-стрит и, в частности, Питт-стрит, все застроенные зданиями в тюдоровском и георгианском стиле, были расчищены, чтобы освободить место для эстакады и торгового центра из бетона в бруталистском стилеAnglia Square — а также офисных зданий, таких как здание HMSO , Sovereign House. Другие пострадавшие районы: Грейпс-Хилл, некогда узкая полоса, вымощенная георгианскими коттеджами 19-го века, которая была расчищена и расширена в двухполосную дорогу, ведущую к кольцевой развязке. Незадолго до строительства кольцевой развязки был снесен старый городской Drill Hall , а также части первоначальной городской стены и другие большие таунхаусы вдоль начала Unthank Road (названной в честь семьи Unthank, местных землевладельцев). [70]

Кольцевая развязка также потребовала сноса северо-западного угла Chapelfield Gardens. Около мили георгианских и викторианских террасных домов вдоль Chapelfield Road и Queens Road, включая многие дома, встроенные в городские стены, были снесены бульдозерами в 1964 году. Это включало прилегающий район от Vauxhall Street, состоящий из полос террасного жилья, которые были признаны трущобами. Это также включало весь район West Pottergate, который содержал смесь коттеджей 18-го и 19-го веков и террасного жилья, пабов и магазинов. Послевоенное жилье и квартиры-мезонеты теперь стоят там, где когда-то были трущобы Rookery . Некоторые аспекты Плана '45 были реализованы, в соответствии с которым большие трехэтажные эдвардианские дома на Grove Avenue и Grove Road, а также другие крупные объекты на Southwell Road были снесены в 1962 году, чтобы освободить место для одноэтажных мезонетов с плоской крышей, которые стоят и по сей день. [71] Heigham Hall, большой особняк в викторианском стиле недалеко от Old Palace Road, также был снесен в 1963 году для строительства квартир в комплексе Dolphin Grove, в котором разместились многие семьи из Нориджа, перемещенные из-за сноса трущоб .

Other housing developments in the private and public sector took place after the Second World War, partly to accommodate the growing population of the city and to replace condemned and bomb-damaged areas, such as the Heigham Grove district between Barn Road and Old Palace Road, where some 200 terraced houses, shops and pubs were all flattened. Only St Barnabas church and one public house, The West End Retreat, now remain. Another central street bulldozed during the 1960s was St Stephens Street. It was widened, clearing away many historically significant buildings in the process, firstly for Norwich Union's new office blocks and shortly after with new buildings, after it suffered damage during the Baedeker raids. In Surrey Street, several grand six-storey Georgian townhouses were demolished to make way for Norwich Union's office. Other notable buildings that were lost were three theatres (the Norwich Hippodrome on St Giles Street, which is now a multi-storey car park, the Grosvenor Rooms and Electric Theatre in Prince of Wales Road) The Norwich Corn Exchange in Exchange Street (built 1861, demolished 1964), the Free Library in Duke Street (built 1857, demolished 1963) and the Great Eastern Hotel, which faced Norwich Station. Two large churches, the Chapel Field East Congregational church[72] (built 1858, demolished 1972) was pulled down, as well as the 100-foot (30 m) tall Presbyterian church in Theatre Street, built in 1874 and designed by local architect Edward Boardman. It has been said that more of Norwich's architecture was destroyed by the council in post-war redevelopment schemes than during the Second World War.[citation needed]

Other events

In 1976 the city's pioneering spirit was on show when Motum Road in Norwich, allegedly the scene of "a number of accidents over the years", became the third road in Britain to be equipped with sleeping policemen, intended to encourage adherence to the road's 30 mph (48 km/h) speed limit.[73] The bumps, installed at intervals of 50 and 150 yards (46 and 137 m), stretched 12 feet (3.7 m) across the width of the road and their curved profile was, at its highest point, 4 in (10 cm) high.[73] The responsible quango gave an assurance that the experimental devices would be removed not more than one year after installation.[73]

From 1980 to 1985 the city became a frequent focus of national media due to squatting in Argyle Street, a Victorian street that was demolished in 1986, despite being the last street to survive the Richmond Hill redevelopment. On 23 November 1981, a minor F0/T1 tornado struck Norwich as part of a record-breaking nationwide tornado outbreak, causing minor damage in Norwich city centre and surrounding suburbs.[74]

Governance

Norwich City Hall

There are two tiers of local government covering Norwich, at district and county level: Norwich City Council and Norfolk County Council. The city council manages services such as housing, planning, leisure and tourism, and is based at City Hall overlooking Norwich Market in the city centre. The county council manages services such as schools, transport, social services and libraries across Norfolk.[75] There are no civil parishes in Norwich, with the whole city being an unparished area.[76]

Lord mayoralty and shrievalty

Norwich Guildhall, the seat of local government from the early 15th century until 1938

The ceremonial head of the city is the Lord Mayor; though now simply a ceremonial position, in the past the office carried considerable authority, with executive powers over the finances and affairs of the city council. The office of Mayor of Norwich dates from 1403 and was raised to the dignity of lord mayor in 1910 by Edward VII "in view of the position occupied by that city as the chief city of East Anglia and of its close association with His Majesty".[77][78] The title was regranted on local government reorganisation in 1974.[79] From 1404 the citizens of Norwich, as a county corporate, had the privilege of electing two sheriffs. Under the Municipal Corporations Act 1835 this was reduced to one and became a ceremonial post. Both Lord Mayor and Sheriff are elected for a year's term of office at the council's annual meeting, but the term of office was temporarily extended to two years for the periods 2019-2021 and 2021-2023, the normal annual elections having been disrupted by the COVID-19 pandemic in the years 2020-2022.[80][77][81]

Westminster

Since 1298 Norwich has returned two members of Parliament to the House of Commons. Until 1950 the city was an undivided constituency, returning two MPs. Since that date, the area has been two single-member constituencies: Norwich North and Norwich South.[82] Both proved to be marginal seats in recent elections until 2010, switching between the Labour and Conservative parties.

Norwich North, which includes some rural wards of Broadland District, was held by Labour from 1950 to 1983 when it was gained by the Conservatives. Labour regained the seat in 1997, holding it until a by-election in 2009. The current MP is the Conservative, Chloe Smith, who held the seat in the 2015 General Election.[83] Norwich South, which includes part of South Norfolk District, was held by Labour from February 1974 to 1983, when it was gained by the Conservatives. John Garrett regained the seat for Labour in 1987. Charles Clarke became Labour MP for Norwich South in 1997.[84] In the 2010 General Election, Labour lost the seat to the Liberal Democrats, with Simon Wright becoming MP.[85] At the 2015 General Election, Clive Lewis regained the seat for Labour.[86] In both the 2017 General Election and 2019 General Election, the two incumbent 2015 MPs held their seats.[87]

Demography

Population pyramid of Norwich in 2021
Population of Norwich

The 2021 United Kingdom census reported a resident population for the City of Norwich of approximately 144,000, a 8.7 per cent increase over the 2011 census.[3] The urban, built-up area of Norwich had a population of 213,166 according to the 2011 census.[90] This area extends beyond the city boundary, with extensive suburban areas on the western, northern and eastern sides, including Costessey, Taverham, Hellesdon, Bowthorpe, Old Catton, Sprowston and Thorpe St Andrew. The parliamentary seats cross over into adjacent local-government districts. The population of the Norwich travel to work area (i. e. the self-contained labour-market area in and around Norwich in which most people live and commute to work) was estimated at 282,000 in 2009.[91] Norwich is one of the most densely populated local-government districts in the East of England, with 3,690 people per square kilometre (9,600 people/sq mi).[92]

In 2022 the ethnic composition of Norwich's population was 87.1% White, 5.5% Asian, 3.2% of mixed race, 2.6% Black, 0.6% Arab and 1.1% of other ethnic heritage.[93] In religion, 33.6% of the population are Christian, 3% Muslim, 1.2% Hindu, 0.7% Buddhist, 0.2% Jewish, 0.1% Sikh, 0.9% of another religion, 53.5% with no religion and 6.8% unwilling to state their religion.[94] In the 2001 and 2011 censuses, Norwich was found to be the least religious city in England, with the highest proportion of respondents with no reported religion, compared to 25.1% across England and Wales.[95] The largest quinary group consists of the 20 to 24-year-olds (14.6%) because of the high university student population.[96]

Ethnicity

Religion

Education

Primary and secondary

The city has 56 primary schools (including 16 academies and free schools) and 13 secondary schools, 11 of which are academies.[102] The city's eight independent schools include Norwich School and Norwich High School for Girls.[102] There are five schools for children with learning disabilities.[103] The former Norwich High School for Boys in Upper St Giles Street has a blue plaque commemorating Sir John Mills, who was a pupil there.[104]

Universities and colleges

Norwich University of the Arts

Norwich has two universities: the University of East Anglia and Norwich University of the Arts. The student population is around 15,000, many of them from overseas.[105] The University of East Anglia, founded in 1963, is located on the outskirts of the city. It has a creative writing programme, established by Malcolm Bradbury and Angus Wilson, whose graduates include Kazuo Ishiguro and Ian McEwan. It has done work on climate research and climate change. Its campus is home to the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, which houses several important art collections. The Norwich University of the Arts dates back to 1845 as the Norwich School of Design. Founded by artists and followers of the Norwich School art movement, it was founded to provide designers for local industries. Previously a specialist art school (the Norwich School of Art and Design), it achieved university status in 2013.

Norwich has three further education colleges. City College Norwich, situated on Ipswich Road, was founded in 1891 and is one of the largest such colleges in the country.[106] Access to Music is located on Magdalen Street at Epic Studios, and Easton & Otley College's Easton Campus is located 7 mi (11 km) west of the city.[107]

Culture and attractions

Historically Norwich has been associated with art, literature and publishing. This continues. It was the site of England's first provincial library, which opened in 1608, and the first city to implement the Public Libraries Act 1850.[108] The Norwich Post was the first provincial newspaper outside London, founded in 1701.[108] The Norwich School of artists was the first provincial art movement, with nationally acclaimed artists such as John Crome associated with the movement.[109] Other literary firsts include Julian of Norwich's Revelations of Divine Love, published in 1395, which was the first book written in the English language by a woman, and the first poem written in blank verse, composed by Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, in the 16th century.[108]

Today the city is a regional centre for publishing, with 5 per cent of the UK's independent publishing sector based in the city in 2012.[108] In 2006 Norwich became the UK's first City of Refuge, part of the International Cities of Refuge Network (ICORN) which promotes free speech.[108] Norwich made the shortlist for the first city to be designated UK City of Culture, but in July 2010 it was announced that Derry had been selected.[110] In May 2012 Norwich was designated as England's first UNESCO City of Literature.[111]

Attractions

Pulls Ferry, once a 15th-century watergate

Norwich is a popular destination for a city break. Attractions include Norwich Cathedral, the cobbled streets and museums of old Norwich, Norwich Castle, Cow Tower, Dragon Hall and The Forum. Norwich is one of the UK's top ten shopping destinations, with a mix of chain retailers and independent stores, and Norwich Market as one of the largest outdoor markets in England.

The Forum, designed by Michael Hopkins and Partners and opened in 2002 is a building designed to house the Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, a replacement for the Norwich Central Library building which burnt down in 1994, and the regional headquarters and television centre for BBC East. In 2006–2013 it was the most visited library in the UK, with 1.3 million visits in 2013.[112] The collections contains the 2nd Air Division Memorial Library, a collection of material about American culture and the American relationship with East Anglia, especially the role of the United States Air Force on UK airbases throughout the Second World War and Cold War. Much of the collection was lost in the 1994 fire, but the collection has been restored by contributions from many veterans of the war, European and American. The building also provides a venue for art exhibitions, concerts and events, although the city still lacks a dedicated concert venue.

Recent attempts to shed the backwater image of Norwich and market it as a popular tourist destination, as well as a centre for science, commerce, culture and the arts, have included refurbishment of the Norwich Castle Museum and the opening of the Forum. The proposed new slogan for Norwich as England's Other City has been the subject of much discussion and controversy. It remains to be seen whether it will be adopted. Several signs at the city's approaches still display the traditional phrase: "Norwich — a fine city".

The Forum, housing, among other things, the Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library and the BBC's East of England headquarters and studios

The city promotes its architectural heritage through a collection of notable buildings in Norwich called the "Norwich 12". The group consists of: Norwich Castle, Norwich Cathedral, the Great Hospital, St Andrew's Hall and Blackfriars' Hall, The Guildhall, Dragon Hall, The Assembly House, St James Mill, St John the Baptist RC Cathedral, Surrey House, City Hall and The Forum.

Art and music

Each year the Norfolk and Norwich Festival celebrates the arts, drawing many visitors into the city from all over eastern England. The Norwich Twenty Group, founded in 1944, presents exhibitions of its members to promote awareness of modern art. Norwich was home to the first arts festival in Britain in 1772.[113]

Norwich Arts Centre is a notable live music venue, concert hall and theatre located in St Benedict's Street. The King of Hearts in Fye Bridge Street is another centre for art and music. Norwich has a thriving music scene based around local venues such as the University of East Anglia LCR, Norwich Arts Centre, The Waterfront and Epic Studios. Live music, mostly contemporary musical genres, is also to be heard at a number of other public house and club venues around the city. The city is host to many artists that have achieved national and international recognition such as Cord, The Kabeedies, Serious Drinking, Tim Bowness, Sennen, Magoo, Let's Eat Grandma and KaitO.

Norwich hosted BBC Radio 1's Big Weekend in 2015. The event was held on 23–24 May in Earlham Park.[114]

Established record labels in Norwich include All Sorted Records,[115] NR ONE,[116] Hungry Audio and Burning Shed.

The British artist Stella Vine lived in Norwich from the age of seven,[117] including for a short while in Argyle Street, Norwich and again later in life with her son Jamie. Vine depicted the city in a large painting, Welcome to Norwich a fine city (2006).[118]

Theatres

Norwich Arts Centre, opened in 1977, on St Benedict's Street
The Theatre Royal, Norwich's largest theatre
Norwich Playhouse on St George's Street

Norwich has theatres ranging in capacity from 100 to 1,300 seats and offering a wide variety of programmes. The Theatre Royal is the largest and has been on its present site for nearly 250 years, through several rebuildings and many alterations. It has 1,300 seats and hosts a mix of national touring productions including musicals, dance, drama, family shows, stand-up comedians, opera and pop.

The Maddermarket Theatre opened in 1921 as the first permanent recreation of an Elizabethan theatre. The founder was Nugent Monck who had worked with William Poel. The theatre is a Shakespearean-style playhouse and has a seating capacity of 310. Norwich Puppet Theatre was founded in 1979 by Ray and Joan DaSilva as a permanent base for their touring company and was first opened as a public venue in 1980, following the conversion of the medieval church of St James in the heart of Norwich. Under subsequent artistic directors — Barry Smith and Luis Z. Boy — the theatre established its current pattern of operation. It is a nationally unique venue dedicated to puppetry, and currently houses a 185-seat raked auditorium, the 50-seat Octagon Studio, workshops, an exhibition gallery, shop and licensed bar. It is the only theatre in the Eastern region with a year-round programme of family-centred entertainment. Norwich Arts Centre theatre opened in 1977 in St Benedict's Street and has a capacity of 290. The Norwich Playhouse, which opened in 1995 and has a seating capacity of 300, is a venue in the heart of the city and one of the most modern performance spaces of its size in East Anglia.

The Garage studio theatre seats up to 110 in a range of layouts, or can be used for standing events for up to 180. Platform Theatre is in the grounds of the City College Norwich. Productions are staged mainly in the autumn and summer months. The theatre is raked and seats about 250. On 20 April 2012, it held a large relaunch event with an evening performance, showcasing it with previews of coming performances and scenes from past ones.[119]

The Whiffler Theatre, built in 1981, was given to the people of Norwich by the local newspaper group Eastern Daily Press. It is an open-air facility in Norwich Castle Gardens, with fixed-raked seating for up to 80 and standing for another 30 on the balcony. The stage is brick-built and has its dressing rooms set in a small building to stage left. The Whiffler mainly plays small Shakespeare productions. Sewell Barn Theatre is the smallest theatre in Norwich and has a seating capacity of just 100. The auditorium features raked seating on three sides of an open acting space. This staging helps to draw the audience closer into the performance.

Public performance spaces include the Forum in the city centre, with a large open-air amphitheatre for performances of many types throughout the year. Additionally, the cloisters of Norwich Cathedral are used for open-air performances as part of an annual Shakespeare festival.[120]

Museums

Norwich has several museums to reflect the history of the city and of Norfolk, and wider interests. The largest, Norwich Castle Museum, has extensive collections of archaeological finds from Norfolk, art (including a fine collection of paintings by the Norwich School of painters), ceramics (including the largest collection of British teapots), silver, and natural history. Of particular interest are dioramas of Norfolk scenery showing wildlife and landscape. It has been much remodelled to enhance the display of the collections and hosts frequent temporary exhibitions of art and other subjects.[121]

Dragon Hall, Norwich, a medieval merchant's house. Taken on the 2006 Sponsored Bike Ride for The Norfolk Churches Trust, 2006-09-09. View from King Street of house front, sign hanging from iron dragon reads 'Dragon Hall'.

The Museum of Norwich at the Bridewell (until 2014 the Bridewell Museum) closed in 2010 for refurbishment of the building and overhaul of the displays,[122] and re-opened in July 2012.[123][124] The several galleries and groups of displays include "Life in Norwich: Our City 1900–1945"; "Life in Norwich: Our City 1945 Onwards"; and "England's Second City" depicting Norwich in the 18th century. "Made in Norwich", "Industrious City" and "Shoemakers" have exhibits connected with historic industries of Norwich, including weaving, shoe and bootmaking, iron foundries, and manufacture of metal goods, engineering, milling, brewing, chocolate-making and other food manufacturing. "Shopping and Trading" extends from the early 19th century to the 1960s.[125]

Strangers' Hall, at Charing Cross, is one of the oldest buildings in Norwich: a merchant's house from the early 14th century. The many rooms are furnished and equipped in the styles of different eras, from the Early Tudor to the Late Victorian. Exhibits include costumes and textiles, domestic objects, children's toys and games and children's books. The last two collections are seen to be of national importance.[126]

The Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum was, until 2011, housed in part of the former Shirehall, close to the castle. Although archives and the reserve collections are still held in the Shirehall, the principal museum display there closed in September 2011 and was relocated to the main Norwich Castle Museum, reopening fully in 2013.[127] It illustrates the history of the regiment from its 17th-century origins to its incorporation into the Royal Anglian Regiment in 1964, along with many aspects of its military life. There is an extensive, representative display of medals awarded to soldiers of the regiment, including two of the six Victoria Crosses won.[128][129]

The City of Norwich Aviation Museum is at Horsham St Faith, on the northern edge of the city, close to Norwich Airport. It has static displays of military and civil aircraft, with various collective exhibits, including one for the United States 8th Army Air Force.[130]

A house in the Cathedral close in Norwich.

Formerly known as The John Jarrold Printing Museum, The Norwich Printing Museum covers the history of printing, with examples of printing machinery, presses, books and related equipment considered of national and international importance.[131] Exhibits date from the early 19th century to the present day. Some machinery and equipment are shown in use. Many items were donated by Jarrold Printing.[132] In November 2018, redevelopment plans for the museum site at Whitefriars caused uncertainty about its future.[133][134] The museum closed its Whitefriars premises on 23 October 2019, with a plan to relocate to the vacant medieval church of St Peter Parmentergate in King Street in 2020, but this site was later found to be unsuitable.[135][136] In 2021, the museum trustees were offered space at Blickling Hall, near Aylsham, and, as "The Norwich Printing Museum", it reopened there as a fully-working museum in July 2021.[137] Whilst the museum continues in its temporary home at Blickling, as at March 2023 the trustees were seeking permanent quarters in Norwich.[138]

Dragon Hall in King Street exemplifies a medieval merchants' trading hall. Mostly dating from about 1430, it is unique in Western Europe. In 2006 the building underwent restoration. Its architecture is complemented by displays on the history of the building and its role in Norwich through the ages. The Norwich Castle Study Centre at the Shirehall in Market Avenue has some important collections, including one of more than 20,000 costume and textile items built up over some 130 years and previously kept in other Norwich museums. Although not a publicly open museum in the usual sense, items are accessible to the public, students and researchers by prior appointment.[139]

Entertainment

Norwich has three cinema complexes. Odeon Norwich is located in the Riverside Leisure Centre, Vue inside the Castle Mall and previously the Hollywood Cinema (closed 2019)[140] at Anglia Square, north of the city centre. Cinema City is an art-house cinema showing non-mainstream productions, operated by Picturehouse in St Andrews Street opposite St Andrew's Hall, whose patron was actor John Hurt.[141] Norwich has a large number of pubs throughout the city. Prince of Wales Road in the city centre, running from the Riverside district near Norwich railway station to Norwich Castle, is home to many of them, along with bars and clubs.

Media and film

Anglia House, the headquarters of Anglia Television, today ITV Anglia

Norwich is the headquarters of BBC East, its presence in the East of England, and BBC Radio Norfolk, BBC Look East, Inside Out and The Politics Show are broadcast from studios in The Forum. Independent radio stations based in Norwich include Heart East, Smooth East Anglia, Greatest Hits Radio Norfolk and North Suffolk, and the University of East Anglia's Livewire 1350, an online station. A community station, Future Radio, was launched on 6 August 2007.

ITV Anglia, formerly Anglia Television, is based in Norwich. Although one of the smaller ITV companies, it supplied the network with some of its most popular shows such as Tales of the Unexpected, Survival and Sale of the Century (1971–1983), which began each edition with John Benson's enthusiastic announcement: "And now from Norwich, it's the quiz of the week!" The company also had a subsidiary called Anglia Multimedia, which produced educational content on CD and DVD mainly for schools, and was one of the three companies, along with Granada TV and the BBC vying for the right to produce a digital television station for English schools and colleges.

Launched in 1959, Anglia Television lost its independence in 1994 with a takeover by Meridian Broadcasting. Subsequent mergers have seen it reduced from a significant producer of programmes to a regional news centre. The company is still based in Anglia House, the former Norfolk and Norwich Agricultural Hall, on Agricultural Hall Plain near Prince of Wales Road.

Despite the contraction of Anglia, television production in Norwich has by no means ended. Anglia's former network production centre at Magdalen Street has been taken over by Norfolk County Council and revamped. After a total investment of £4 million from the East of England Development Agency (EEDA) it has re-opened as Epic Studios (East of England Production Innovation Centre). Degree courses in film and video are run at the centre by Norwich University of the Arts. Epic has commercial, broadcast-quality post-production facilities, a real-time virtual studio and a smaller HD discussion studio. The main studio opened as an HD facility in November 2008, when it began concentrating on the development of new TV formats and has worked on pilot shows.

Archant publishes two dailies in Norwich, the Norwich Evening News and the regional Eastern Daily Press (EDP). It had its own television operation, Mustard TV, which closed after being bought out by the That's TV group. Mustard TV is now That's Norfolk.

The character of Alan Partridge in the sitcom I'm Alan Partridge (1997–2002) and the comedy film Alan Partridge: Alpha Papa (2013) is a Norwich broadcaster played by Steve Coogan.

Esoteric associations

Because Norwich was England's second city in the medieval and Renaissance periods, it has some little acknowledged, but significant associations with esoteric spirituality. It was the home of William Cuningham, a physician who published An Invective Epistle in Defense of Astrologers in 1560.[142] The Elizabethan dramatist Robert Greene, author of Friar Bacon and Friar Bungay, was born in Norwich in 1558. The city was the retirement residence of Arthur Dee (died Norwich, 1651), eldest son of the alchemist John Dee.[143][144]

The Layer Monument, marble polychrome c. 1600

Norwich was the residence of the physician and hermetic philosopher Sir Thomas Browne, author of The Garden of Cyrus (1658). Many influential esoteric titles are listed as once in Browne's library.[145] His coffin-plate, on display at the church of St Peter Mancroft, alludes to Paracelsian medicine and alchemy. Translated from Latin it reads, "Great Virtues, ...sleeping here the dust of his spagyric body converts the lead to gold." Browne was also a significant figure in the history of physiognomy.

The Church of St John Maddermarket's graveyard includes the Crabtree headstone, which has the pre-Christian symbol of the Ouroboros along with Masonic Square and Compasses carved upon it. Within the church is the Layer Monument, a rare example of an alchemical mandala in European funerary art.[146]

From 1787 the congregation of the New Jerusalem Church of Swedenborgians, followers of the mystic Emanuel Swedenborg, worshipped at the Church of St Mary the Less; in 1852 they moved to Park Lane, Norwich to establish the Swedenborgian Chapel.[147][148]

Architecture

Norwich's medieval period is represented by the 11th-century Norwich Cathedral, 12th-century castle (now a museum) and several parish churches, including the 15th-century Saint James the Less, Pockthorpe, which survived the bombing in World War II.[149] In the Middle Ages, 57 churches stood within the city wall; 31 still exist and seven are still used for worship.[150] There was a common regional saying that it had a church for every week of the year and a pub for every day. Norwich is said to have more standing medieval churches than any city north of the Alps.[95] The Adam and Eve is believed to be the oldest pub in the city,[151] with the earliest known reference made in 1249.[152] Most medieval buildings are in the city centre. Notable secular examples are Dragon Hall, built about 1430, and The Guildhall, built in 1407–1413 with later additions. From the 18th century, the pre-eminent local name is Thomas Ivory, who built the Assembly Rooms (1776), the Octagon Chapel (1756), St Helen's House (1752) in the grounds of the Great Hospital, and innovative speculative housing in Surrey Street (c. 1761). Ivory should not be confused with the Irish architect of the same name and a similar period.

The 19th century saw an explosion in Norwich's size and much of its housing stock, as well as commercial building in the city centre. The local architect of the Victorian and Edwardian periods who continues to command most respect was George Skipper (1856–1948). Examples of his work include the Norwich Union headquarters in Surrey Street the Modern Style (British Art Nouveau style) Royal Arcade, and the Hotel de Paris in the nearby seaside town of Cromer. The neo-Gothic Roman Catholic St John the Baptist Cathedral in Earlham Road was begun in 1882 by George Gilbert Scott Junior and his brother, John Oldrid Scott. George Skipper had great influence on the appearance of the city. John Betjeman compared it to Gaudi's influence on Barcelona.[153]

The city continued to grow through the 20th century. Much housing, particularly in areas further from the city centre, dates from that century. The first notable building since Skipper was the City Hall by C. H. James and S. R. Pierce, opened in 1938. At the same time they moved the City War Memorial, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, to a memorial garden between the city hall and the market place. Bombing during the Second World War, resulting in relatively little loss of life, caused marked damage to the housing stock in the city centre. Much of the post-war replacement stock was designed by the local-authority architect, David Percival. However, the major post-war architectural development in Norwich was the opening of the University of East Anglia in 1964. Originally designed by Denys Lasdun (his design was never completely executed), it has been added to over subsequent decades by major names such as Norman Foster and Rick Mather.

Parks, gardens and open spaces

Riverside flats, Norwich

See also List of parks, gardens and open spaces in NorwichChapelfield Gardens in central Norwich became the city's first public park in November 1880. From the start of the 20th century, Norwich Corporation began buying and leasing land to develop parks when funds became available. Sewell Park and James Stuart Gardens are examples of land donated by benefactors.

After the First World War the Corporation applied government grants to lay out a series of formal parks as a means to alleviate unemployment. Under Parks Superintendent Captain Sandys-Winsch,[154] Heigham Park was completed in 1924, Wensum Park in 1925, Eaton Park in 1928 and Waterloo Park in 1933. These retain many features from Sandys-Winsch's plans and have joined the English Heritage Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest.[155]

As of 2015, the city has 23 parks, 95 open spaces and 59 natural areas managed by the local authority.[156] In addition there are several private gardens occasionally opened to the public in aid of charity.[157] The Plantation Garden, also private, opens daily.[158]

Sport

Carrow Road – the home of Norwich City FC

The principal local football club is Norwich City, known as the Canaries. In 2020–21 it finished first in the second tier of English football, the Championship, earning promotion to the Premier League for 2021–22. Majority-owned by celebrity chef Delia Smith and her husband Michael Wynn-Jones, its ground is Carrow Road Stadium. It has strong East Anglian rivalry with Ipswich Town. The club has enjoyed much success in the past, having played in the top division regularly since 1972, its longest spell being a nine-year run from 1986 to 1995. It has won two Football League Cups, and finished third in the inaugural Premier League in 1993. The club was relegated two years later and did not reclaim its place for nine years, going down again after just one season, only to return in 2011 after two successive promotions.

In 1993, the club eliminated German giants Bayern Munich from the UEFA Cup, in what is to date Norwich City's only season in European competitions; it had qualified for the UEFA Cup three times between 1985 and 1989 but been unable to compete as there was a ban on English clubs in European competitions at the time. Before emerging as a top division club, it famously eliminated Manchester United from the FA Cup in 1959 and went on to reach the semi-finals of the domestic cup competition, a run it achieved again in 1989 and most recently in 1992. In the 1980s and early 1990s, the club produced some highly-rated talent of that era, including striker Chris Sutton, winger Ruel Fox, defender Andy Linighan, midfielder Mike Phelan, midfielder Tim Sherwood and striker Justin Fashanu. The club's successful managers have included Ken Brown, Ron Saunders, Dave Stringer, Mike Walker, Nigel Worthington, Paul Lambert and Daniel Farke.[citation needed]

The city's second club, Norwich United, is based in Blofield some 5 mi (8.0 km) east of the city. Along with Norwich CBS, it plays in the Eastern Counties League. The now-defunct Gothic was also based in Norwich. Local football clubs are served by the Norwich and District Saturday Football League.

Norwich has an athletics club, City of Norwich AC (CoNAC), a rugby club, the Norwich Lions, a handball Club, Norwich HC, and five field hockey clubs. In the 2012–2013 season, the club playing at the highest level on the men's side was Norwich City Hockey Club[159] in the East Hockey Premier B, which is two levels below the National League. The second highest is Norwich Dragons in Division Two North, then the students only University of East Anglia Men's Hockey Club in Division Three North East, then Norfolk Nomads Men's Hockey Club in Division Six North East. On the Ladies' side of the game, both Norwich City Hockey Club and Norwich Dragons Hockey club play in East Hockey's Division One North, two levels below National League. Following them, the students from the University of East Anglia Women's Hockey Club play in the Norfolk Premier Division. Also in Norwich, there is a veterans-only side, Norwich Exiles.[citation needed]

Since 2015, Norwich has hosted an annual 10k athletics road race Run Norwich

Outside the city boundary, the dry ski and snowboarding slopes of Norfolk Ski Club are located at Whitlingham Lane in Trowse. Close by in the parish of Whitlingham is Whitlingham Country Park,[160] home to the Outdoor Education Centre.[161] The centre is based on the south bank of the Great Broad which is also used by scuba divers from one of the city's three diving schools, and by other water and land sports.[162]

Of Norwich's two main rowing clubs, the Yare Boat Club is the older but smaller of the two. It is based on an island on the River Yare accessed from beside the Rivergarden pub in Thorpe Road. The larger Norwich Rowing Club, in partnership with Norwich Canoe Club, UEA Boat Club, Norwich School Boat Club and Norwich High School Rowing Club, has built a boathouse alongside Whitlingham Little Broad and the River Yare. Norwich Canoe Club[163] specialises in sprint and marathon racing. It holds the highest British Canoe Union Top Club Gold accreditation,[164] and is one of the more successful clubs in the UK. Ian Wynne, 2004 Olympics K1 500m bronze medallist, is an honorary member.

Speedway racing was staged in Norwich before and after World War II at The Firs Stadium in Holt Road, Hellesdon. The Norwich Stars raced in the Northern League of 1946 and the National League Division Two between 1947 and 1951, winning it in 1951. They were later elevated to the National League and raced at the top flight until the stadium was closed at the end of the 1964 season.[165] One meet was staged at a venue at Hevingham, but without an official permit, and it did not lead to a revival of the sport in the Norwich area.

In boxing, Norwich can boast former European and British lightweight champion Jon Thaxton,[166] reigning English light heavyweight champion Danny McIntosh[167] and heavyweight Sam Sexton, a former winner of the Prizefighter tournament.[168] Based in Norwich, Herbie Hide has been WBO Heavyweight World Champion twice, winning the championship in 1994–95 and for a second time in 1997.[169]

Norwich has a UK baseball team, the Norwich Iceni, which competes at the Single-A level of the BBF.[170] It was founded in 2015 with players from the UEA Blue Sox, who wished to carry on playing after university. The team officially joined the league in 2017 and was crowned BBF Single-A champions in its first season, going undefeated with 17 wins.[171]

Statistics

The Pablo Fanque House student accommodation building in Norwich City Centre, as seen from the lookout point at Kett's Heights in Norwich.

Norwich was the second city of England after London for several centuries before industrialisation, which came late to Norwich due to its isolation and lack of raw materials.[citation needed]

In November 2006 the city was voted the greenest in the UK.[172] There is currently an initiative to make it a transition town. Norwich has been the scene of open discussions in public spaces, known as "meet in the street", to cover social and political issues.[173]

Articles in the past suggested that compared with other UK cities, Norwich was top of the league by percentage of population among who use the popular Internet auction site eBay.[174] The city also unveiled the then-biggest free Wi-Fi network in the UK in July 2006.[175]

In August 2007 Norwich was listed among nine finalists in its population group for the International Awards for Liveable Communities.[176] The city eventually won a silver award in the small-city category.

Economy and infrastructure

The Royal Arcade, designed by George Skipper, opened in 1899

Norwich's economy was historically manufacturing-based, including a large shoemaking industry, but it transitioned in the 1980s and 1990s into a service-based economy.[177]

The greater-Norwich economy (including Norwich, Broadland and South Norfolk government districts) as measured by GVA was estimated at £7.4 billion in 2011 (2011 GVA at 2006 prices).[178] The city's largest employment sectors are business and financial services (31%), public services (26%), retail (12%), manufacturing (8%) and tourism (7%).[179]

The proportion of working-age adults in Norwich claiming unemployment benefits is 3.3%[180] compared with 3.6% across the UK.[181]

New developments on the former Boulton and Paul site include a Riverside entertainment complex with nightclubs and other venues featuring the usual national leisure brands. Nearby, the football stadium is being upgraded with more residential property development alongside the River Wensum.

Archant, formerly Eastern Counties Newspapers (ECN), is a national publishing group that has grown out of the city's local newspapers and is headquartered in Norwich.

Norwich has long been associated with the making of mustard. The world-famous Colman's brand, with its yellow packaging, was founded in 1814 and operated from a factory at Carrow, latterly owned by Unilever. This site closed in 2019, with mustard now being made by Condimentum at Honingham, in a supply deal with Unilever.[182][183] Colman's is exported worldwide, putting Norwich on the map of British heritage brands. The Colman's Mustard Shop, which sold Colman's products and related gifts, was until 2017 located in the Royal Arcade in the centre of Norwich but closed in that year.[184]

Situated to the south-west of the city is the Norwich Research Park, a community of research organisations, including the Institute of Food Research and the John Innes Centre, and over 30 science and technology-based businesses, the University of East Anglia and the Norfolk and Norwich University Hospital.

Norwich's night-time economy of bars and night clubs is mainly located in Tombland, Prince of Wales Road and the Riverside area adjacent to Norwich railway station.

Norwich's location in a mainly-agricultural county provided opportunities for the supply of services to that industry. Prior to 1960, a large area below the Castle Mound was given over to Norwich Livestock Market. In that year, the Livestock Market moved from the centre of the city to a new site at Harford and, although now diminished in size, it continues to hold regular auctions of poultry, cattle, sheep and farm machinery.[185]

Retail

Norwich Market With St Peter Mancroft church and the Sir Garnet public house in the background

Norwich was the eighth most prosperous shopping destination in the UK in 2006.[186] It has an ancient marketplace established by the Normans in 1071–1074, which is today the largest six-day-a-week open-air market in England. In 2006, the market was downsized and redeveloped; the new market stalls have proved controversial: with 20% less floor space than the originals, higher rental and other charges, and inadequate rainwater handling, which has been unpopular with many stallholders and customers. In 2007 the local Norwich Evening News called Norwich Market an ongoing conflict between market traders and its operator, Norwich City Council.[187]

The Castle Quarter, a shopping centre designed by the local practice Lambert, Scott & Innes and opened in 1993, presents an ingenious solution to the problem of accommodating retail space in a historic city-centre environment — the building is largely concealed underground and built into the side of a hill, with a public park created on its roof in the area south of the castle.

A second shopping centre, Chantry Place (formally Chapelfield) was opened in 2005 on the site of a closed Caley's (later Rowntree Mackintosh and Nestlé) chocolate factory, featuring as its flagship department store House of Fraser. Following a change of ownership in 2020, it was renamed Chantry Place. Detractors have criticised the centre as unnecessary and damaging to local businesses, prompting smaller retailers to band together to promote their virtues. Despite this, in August 2006 it was reported by the Javelin Group that Norwich was one of the top five retail destinations in the UK,[188] and in October 2006 the city centre was voted best in the UK in a shopping satisfaction survey run by Goldfish Credit Card.[189]

A section of central Norwich roughly bounded by Bethel Street/Upper St Giles Street, Grapes Hill, St Benedict's and St Andrew's Hill/London Street/Castle Meadow is now known and promoted as Norwich Lanes. As a series of mostly pedestrianised lanes, alleyways and streets, it is noted for independent retailers and eating and drinking establishments. It also contains several of the city's cultural attractions, including museums, theatres and other venues. Norwich Lanes, as part of a nationwide drive to recognise the importance and maintain the character and individuality of Britain's high streets, was the Great British High Street Awards 2014 national winner in the "City" category.[190]

To the north is Anglia Square shopping centre. The owners of the site want it redeveloped; demolition work was due to start in 2010 after an archaeological dig, conducted in 2009 and due to the centre being located around the site of a Saxon fortified settlement. The Twentieth Century Society has objected to demolish on the ground of the architectural merits of one of the few Brutalists shopping centres left in the UK and the 35,900 tonnes of embodied carbon.[191][59] The development is planned to be a mix of shops and housing, unlike the original offices, shops and cinema.[192] In February 2009, an initial delay to the plans was blamed on the economic climate, and developers were unable to say when work would begin. Further delays occurred in the years following.[193] In 2014, it was bought by investment manager Threadneedle Investments for £7.5 million.[194] The owners and their partner Weston Homes announced in November 2016 they had been holding talks with chief officers at Norwich City Hall. Plans submitted included demolishing Anglia Square, the former stationery office and Gildengate House. Over a thousand homes were planned above shop units and a public square.[195][196] In early 2018, Weston Homes and landowner Columbia Threadneedle submitted regeneration plans to include 1,200 homes, a 20-storey tower block, a supermarket, a hotel, green squares and central courtyards.[197] The controversial 2018 plans were rejected by the Secretary of State for Housing, Communities and Local Government in 2020, and in 2021 the developer resubmitted revised plans.[198]

Electricity supply

Temporary electric street lighting in Norwich started in 1882. The first permanent supply came in 1893 from a generating station in Duke Street. This supplied local industry and domestic users and from 1900 the Norwich Electric Tramways. In the late 1920s, a new 40 MW power station was built at Thorpe, to which was added in 1937 30 MW "high pressure" generating plant. These operated until 1975. A gas turbine plant was installed in 1964 to provide power at times of peak demand. This closed in 1986 and the entire Thorpe power station site was demolished and cleared in 1981–1982. Two tall electricity pylons stood near the site until they were dismantled in 2017. Further details appear in Norwich power stations.

Transport

Railway

Norwich railway station

Norwich railway station is sited in the east of the city centre and is managed by Greater Anglia, which also operates most passenger services.

It is the northern terminus of the Great Eastern Main Line. There are half-hourly inter-city services to London Liverpool Street, via Ipswich, Colchester and Chelmsford.[199]

Hourly regional services to Cambridge, and out of Norwich as far as Ely, are run along the Breckland Line. There are also hourly local services to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft (using the Wherry Lines) and to Sheringham (using the Bittern Line).[199]

East Midlands Railway operate a direct route to the Midlands and North West England, with hourly services to Liverpool Lime Street calling at Peterborough, Nottingham, Sheffield and Manchester Piccadilly.[200]

Norwich is the site of Crown Point TMD, a depot that maintains the trains used in the area.[201]

Road

Norwich lies north of the A47 (bypassed to the south of the city), which connects it with Great Yarmouth to the east, and King's Lynn and Peterborough to the west. There are plans to upgrade the A47, especially sections that are still single-carriageway, prompted partly by ongoing construction of Great Yarmouth Outer Harbour.[202]

Norwich is linked to Cambridge, via the A11, which leads to the M11 motorway for London and the M25. It is linked to Ipswich to the south by the A140 and to Lowestoft to the south-east by the A146.

The city also features two ring roads, one inner ring and one outer, which are incomplete due to the river. Norwich has the UK's largest independent car club.[203]

Buses and coaches

Norwich bus station
A Wrightbus Electroliner battery electric vehicle in Norwich, 2023

The main bus companies operating routes in and around Norwich are First Eastern Counties, Konectbus and Sanders Coaches; destinations throughout the city and the rest of Norfolk are served, as are Peterborough and Lowestoft.[204]

National Express runs ten coaches a day to three main London airports: Stansted, Heathrow and Gatwick; there are also five services each day to London and one a day to Birmingham.[205] Megabus also operates a daily service to London.[206]

Most bus and coach services run from Norwich bus station or Castle Meadow.

The Norwich park and ride network has six sites run by Konectbus; in 2004, it was reported to have one of the UK's largest park & ride operations.[207][208] Almost 5,000 parking spaces are provided; between April and December 2023, the number of passengers using the service increased by 2.6 million compared to the same time period in 2022.[209]

In 2023, 75 Wrightbus Electroliner battery electric vehicles (60 double-deckers and 15 single-deckers) were funded by the UK government for use in Norwich; this gives the city one of the largest electric bus fleets in the UK.

Air

Norwich Airport (ICAO code EGSH) is a feeder to the Dutch airline KLM's Schiphol hub. Loganair and TUI Airways both serve Norwich, with flights to Aberdeen and European holiday destinations respectively.[210]

Through Bristow Helicopters, Norwich Airport caters for the offshore oil and gas industry. The airport was originally the airfield of RAF Horsham St Faith. A former RAF hangar became the home of Air UK, which grew out of Air Anglia and was then absorbed by KLM.

Cycling

Cycling routes around the station

National Cycle Route 1 between Dover and Tain (in the Scottish Highlands) is the only route in the National Cycle Network to pass through Norwich.[211] Norwich City Council maintain seven colour-coded cycling routes in the city known as Pedalways. [212] A attempt was made in 2015 to improve Pedalways, which attracted scrutiny from local residents and cycling campaigners alike.[213][214]

Waterways

River Wensum
The River Wensum, near Norwich Cathedral and the Maid's Head hotel

The River Yare is navigable from the sea at Great Yarmouth up to Trowse, south of the city. From there, the River Wensum is navigable into Norwich and up to New Mills; it is crossed by the Novi Sad Friendship Bridge. Scheduled trips through the city and out to the nearby Broads are run by City Boats from outside of Norwich station and Elm Hill. In June 2012, Norwich City Council gave permission for punting on the River Wensum.[215]

Proposed developments

In 2017, the first part of the new 12 mi (19 km) Norwich Northern Distributor Road, linking the A1067 in the north-west of the city to the A47 road in the east, was opened. The remainder of the road opened in 2018. There is also some discussion in building the Norwich Western Link section from the A1067 to the A47 southern bypass to the west, as originally proposed.[216]

Other proposals in the Norwich Transport Strategy include limiting traffic on some roads, introducing five rapid bus links into the city and creating a train/tram link to the Rackheath eco-town.[217]

Geography

Norwich is 100 miles (160 km) north-east of London, 40 miles (64 km) north of Ipswich and 65 miles (105 km) east of Peterborough.[citation needed]

Climate

Sea fog clinging to the East Anglian coast, February 2008; Norwich is denoted by the yellow dot

Norwich, like the rest of the British Isles, has a temperate maritime climate. It does not suffer extreme temperatures, and benefits from rainfall fairly evenly spread throughout the year. Coltishall, about 11 mi (18 km) to the north-east, was the nearest official met-office weather station for which records are available, although it ceased reporting in early 2006 – Norwich airport now provides readings. Norwich's position in East Anglia, jutting out into the North Sea can produce weather conditions that have less effect on other parts of the country, such as snow or sleet showers during the winter months on a northerly or easterly wind, or sea fog/haar during the summer half of the year. An example of Norwich being afflicted by sea fog is shown in the adjacent image.

The highest temperature recorded at Coltishall was 33.1 °C (91.6 °F)[218] during June 1976. However, going back further to 1932, and Norwich's absolute record high reached 35.6 °C (96.1 °F),[219] while 37.0 °C was reached in July 2022 at Norwich Weather Centre. Typically the warmest day of the year should reach 28.8 °C (83.8 °F)[220] and 9.9 days[221] should register a temperature of 25.1 °C (77.2 °F) or higher.

The lowest temperature recorded at Coltishall was −15.3 °C (4.5 °F)[222] during January 1979. In a typical year however, the coldest night should only fall to −7.5 °C (18.5 °F).[223] On average 39.4 air frosts will be recorded during the course of the year[224] More recently, the temperature at Norwich Airport fell to −14.4 °C (6.1 °F)[225] on 18 December 2010 with unofficial weather stations reporting localised readings of −17 and −18 °C (1 and 0 °F).

The nearest sunshine monitoring weather station for which records are available is Morley agricultural research centre, about 11 mi (18 km) south-west of Norwich city centre. For the 1961–1990 period, it averaged 1558 hours of sunshine a year,[226] a relatively high total for an inland part of the British Isles outside of southern England.

Rainfall, at around 650 mm (26 in), is low, although as much as 100 mm (3.9 in) higher than other, more sheltered parts of East Anglia, as Norwich is more prone to showers originating from the North Sea.[227]

Travellers' comments

In 1507 the poet John Skelton (1460–1529) wrote of two destructive fires in his Lament for the City of Norwich.

"All life is brief, and frail all man's estate. City, farewell: I mourn thy cruel fate."

Thomas Fuller in his The Worthies of England described the City in 1662 as:

"Either a city in an orchard or an orchard in a city, so equally are houses and trees blended in it, so that the pleasure of the country and the populousness of the city meet here together. Yet in this mixture, the inhabitants participate nothing of the rusticalness of the one, but altogether the urbanity and civility of the other."

Celia Fiennes (1662–1741) visited Norwich in 1698 and described it as

"a city walled full round of towers, except on the riverside which serves as a wall; they seem the best in repair of any walled city I know." She also records that three times a year the city held:
"great fairs – to which resort a vast concourse of people and wares a full trade", Norwich being "a rich, thriving industrious place full of weaving, knitting and dyeing".

Daniel Defoe in Tour thro' the whole Island of Great Britain (1724) wrote:

"The inhabitants being all busy at their manufactures, dwell in their garrets at their looms, in their combing-shops, so they call them, twisting-mills, and other work-houses; almost all the works they are employed in being done within doors."

John Evelyn (1620–1706), royalist, traveller and diarist, wrote to Sir Thomas Browne:

"I hear Norwich is a place very much addicted to the flowery part." He visited the City as a courtier to King Charles II in 1671 and described it thus:
"The suburbs are large, the prospect sweet, and other amenities, not omitting the flower-garden, which all the Inhabitants excel in of this City, the fabric of stuffs, which affords the Merchants, and brings a vast trade to this populous Town."

James Woodforde (1740–1803), clergyman, on his first visit to Norwich, wrote in his diary on 14 April 1775:

"We took a walk over the City in the morning, and we both agreed that it was the finest City in England by far, in the center of it is a high Hill and on that a prodigious large old Castle almost perfect and forms a compleat square, round it is a fine Terrass Walk which commands the whole City. There are in the City 36 noble Churches mostly built with flint, besides many meeting Houses of divers sorts. A noble River runs almost thro the Center of the City. The City walls are also very perfect and all round the City but where the River is. On the Hills round the City stand many Wind Mills about a dozen, to be seen from Castle Mount."[229]

George Borrow in his semi-autobiographical novel Lavengro (1851) wrote of Norwich as:

"A fine old city, perhaps the most curious specimen at present extant of the genuine old English Town ….There it spreads from north to south, with its venerable houses, its numerous gardens, its thrice twelve churches, its mighty mound...There is an old grey castle on top of that mighty mound: and yonder rising three hundred feet above the soil, from amongst those noble forest trees, behold that old Norman master-work, that cloud-enriched cathedral spire... Now who can wonder that the children of that fine old city are proud, and offer up prayers for her prosperity?"

Borrow wrote far less favourably of the City in his translation of Faust:

"They found the people of the place modelled after so unsightly a pattern, with such ugly figures and flat features that the devil owned he had never seen them equalled, except by the inhabitants of an English town, called Norwich, when dressed in their Sunday's best."

In 1812, Andrew Robertson wrote to the painter Constable:

"I arrived here a week ago and find it a place where the arts are very much cultivated … some branches of knowledge, chemistry, botany, etc. are carried to a great length. General literature seems to be pursued with an ardour which is astonishing when we consider that it does not contain a university, as is merely a manufacturing town."

In 1962, Sir Nikolaus Pevsner stated in his North-West Norfolk and Norwich volume of The Buildings of England:

"Norwich is distinguished by a prouder sense of civic responsibility than any other town of about the same size in Britain."

Notable people

Twin cities

Norwich has town twinning agreements with four cities:

Rouen, Normandy, France,[230] since 1951
Koblenz, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany,[231] since 1978
Novi Sad, Vojvodina, Serbia,[232] since 1989
El Viejo, Chinandega Department, Nicaragua,[233] since 1996

Freedom of the City

The following people, military units and organisation have received the Freedom of the City of Norwich.

Individuals

Military units

Organisations and groups

[236]

Notes

  1. ^ For table of city sizes see Corfield (2004, p. 143)
  2. ^ Reports quoted by Knights 2004, pp. 168–174
  3. ^ Quoted by Knights 2004, pp. 181–182
  4. ^ Hayes 1958 Quote: "a major city manufacturer, and government supporter, Robert Harvey Jr as writing on 12 March 1793: 'The consequences of this just and inevitable war visit this poor city severely and suspend the operations of the Dutch, German and Italian trade and the only lingering employment in the manufactory is the completion of a few Russian orders, and the last China cambletts which I hope will find encouragement in the new East India Charter. This languid trade has doubled our poor-rate and a voluntary subscription of above £2,000 is found inadequate to the exigencies of the poor."
  5. ^ Quotations and facts from Wilson (2004b)
  6. ^ Lord Stanhope was a radical peer, seen by many at the time as a dangerous menace. He is said to have given his rabble-rousing speech in a Norwich public house in 1794.
  7. ^ Before the 20th century it was the practice for a sitting member to seek re-election if appointed to ministerial office.

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External links

Sources